Local Compartment of Gythion Municipality that consists of the villages Neohorio, Ageranos, Agios Vasilios (Neohorion), Vatheos, Dihova, Kamares, and Kaukios. It is built on the lowland and covers an area of 13,8 km2. The population has often fluctuated. In 1940, there were 525 residents, in 1951, 491, in 1991, 262 and in 2001, 331. Last August, at the fire, Neohorio, Ageranos and Kamares had big damages. Both agriculture and cattle breeding were affected. The promises given by the government haven’t still been materialized. Let’s wish, so that the promises are kept in order to solve people’s problems.

Everyday life has its own pace without stress. Farmers, fishermen and employees at tourist jobs managed to keep alive the area, despite the problems they have to deal with.

Neohori is a traditional village with both old renovated houses and new ones. In most of them, there is respect for minimalism and history with the addition, of course, of new features according to modern life. The old houses are built with stones, cut centuries ago, which still remain in their place despite the changes. Neohorio, Agios Vasilios and Dihova are in the inland, whereas Ageranos, Vathy and Kamares are on the seaside with many beaches and hotels.

Ageranos Cape, at the northern part of the village, is most probably ancient Arainos, where Las’ statue and tomb were. It is said that Las was murdered by Achilles, when he came to ask from Tindareo Eleni’s hand. Further down, at the river mouth of Skyras, it is said that Pyrros, Achilles son, made a stop on his way to Skyros aiming to marry Ermioni, Belle Elene’s daughter.

The temple of Diktinis Artemis was on the seaside. Ageranos was the centre of captain Antonis Grigorakis (1803-1808). The stone tower of Antonbey Grigorakis impresses the visitor. On the west, there are the stone towers of Altzerinakos and Xyntarakos as well as the tower complex of Tsikourios high on the hill. The construction has 2 floors and it is surrounded by a complex of houses, stables, warehouses, bakeries, a well and a wall with a gate.

Before the complex, there is Ypapantis temple. On the walls, there are stones taken from ancient temples. It’s worth mentioning also Agios Nicolaos temple (19th century).

Vathy attracts a large part of tourists that come to the area to enjoy the beautiful sea and the tourist infrastructure. At the northern part, there are traces of Hellenistic and Roman period.

Kamares is a tourist resort. The beach has thin pebbles and it is preferred for quiet and happy holidays. Boats and fishing boats are ready to set off for the big haul and then sell their goods to the tavernas.

Shore and sea, a whole world! At wintertime when the northern breeze cools the face, the landscape is so quiet and serene despite the burden of the past and the traces of the present.

It is the Municipal Compartment of Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Myrsini and Prophet Elias. There are approximately 187 inhabitants. The name Myrsini is recent. In the past, the village was called Panitsa.

It is 8 km away from the junction of the road Areopoli-Gythion. It used to be the capital of the old Municipality of Malevri, whereas in 1928 it had 28 inhabitants.

One can see the ruined towers that belonged to Petropoulakis family, as well as the tower of the writer Voula Damianakou.

The role of the Cultural Association Panitsa “ΚΑΠΕΤΑΝ ΛΙΤΣΑΣ” is very important. They organize a lot of events of cultural, educational and historical content and take part in the events at Kastanofito (Osnitsani) Kastoria, which are devoted to the Maniat fighters Antonis Vlahakis, Leonidas and Panagiotis Petropoulakis who fell in the so called battle in 1906 to prove that Macedonia is Greek.

The history of the place is connected to Petropoulakis family, which appeared in 18th century. The family contributed a lot to the struggle of the Nation both in Revolution 1821 and in the revolutionary movement in Thessalia, Crete and Macedonia against Bulgarians.

Olive cultivation and cattle breeding is the only occupation they had. Consequently they couldn’t stay there and a large part of the population immigrated.

The country road that goes to the village should be maintained, whereas there are still the traces of the fire that broke out two years ago and destroyed a large part of the olive grove; in 1981 there was also a destructive fire.

In every corner, in every uphill lane, there are signs of the past. Many houses are renovated; others wait, whereas many new ones are built, too. A few meters away from the entrance of the village, the temple Aghios Spyridon, the temples of Panagia and other small chapels prove the religious feelings of the villagers.

The spring scents from the May flowers are unique. Calmness and relaxation prevail. Images, scents, colors intermingle and create a sense of melancholy to those that lead an urban life.

What is really “patrida” (the birthplace)? Is it the plains? Is it the high mountains? Is it the celebration, the struggle, nature, history? Is it the concealed dreams and ardour? All these are connected to the beauty of Mani. They are a journey to this part of the planet with a glorious past and present.

Antonis Roumaneas     

Marathea is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Marathea, Nea Marathea, Diros and Kouloukas. At the census in 2001, 107 inhabitants were recorded. In the past, the village was densely populated, whereas in 1950 and 1960, it was affected by immigrations, along with the other villages of Mani. In 1940, there were 359 inhabitants and in 1951, 301. It belongs to the lowland of the Municipality and covers an area of 9.900.000m2. The 2.300.000m2 are cultivated areas and the rest is pastoral land.

From the very first moment, you look at the beautiful village that hangs from the hillside, 3 km from the intersection of the road Areopoli-Gythion you are enchanted.

“Gennisi tis Theotokou” is the parish church of the village, whereas at the other side there is Agios Constantinos chapel. Both churches prove the skills of the handymen as well as the need of the local people to communicate with God. Simple and plain without fancy ornaments.

At the central square of the village there is a fountain that was built in 2003 for the travellers. It was donated by Themistocles Sarelakos, whereas next to it they planted a plane-tree to make shadow and keep the place cool.

There are many stone houses; amongst them there is Zebekos tower.

A traditional guesthouse is about to welcome the visitors of the village.

The combination of tranquillity and sweetness expressed by the constructions in combination to the dense vegetation and the olive groves of the surrounding area excite the visitor.

Marathea used to be a central village; it is built in a green landscape full of beech trees, oak trees, chestnut trees, olive trees and many others that create the ideal refuge for those who want live unforgettable moments in nature.

The village is well taken care of and clean with the traditional colours and scents. The relationships amongst the villagers are human and fellow caring, whereas the neighbours always reach the hand to give or take. This is a big thing nowadays!!!

Antonis Roumaneas

Konakia is the Municipal compartment of Gythion Municipality that consists of the villages Konakia and Pilala. It is 8 km after the intersection of the country road Gythion-Areopoli. It has 183 inhabitants (census 2001). It sits on the west side of Gythion on the SE foothills of Taygetus. It is built inside olive groves, whereas in 1928 it had 445 inhabitants.

Since then, many things changed in Mani and in Greece, in general. Memories are weaker, the sense of measure is lost and the tiles were replaced by concrete and machines. Konakia didn’t escape the modern changes. However, there are still some traditional houses and stonewalls.

The fortresses at Pilala and the Hatzakos castle are of exquisite architecture.

In a green area, in the entrance of Konakia, there is the church Agios Jeorgios of the 12th century with a tower bell. It is a sample of artistic architecture that incites the senses.

In these places, history is alive. Earthly colors constitute a scenery of scattered chapels that guard Christianity. Stone fortresses take us back to old times. Life is calm and time is slow. In full harmony with the environment, the stonewalls follow the morphology of the ground enriching the landscape and protecting it from erosion.

Animals and plants find shelter in the rocks. Lizards, spiders, snails, snakes, birds and porcupines find haven there, when the weather conditions are bad. These walls are a smooth intrusion to the environment of multiple use, ecological and aesthetic value, which is part of our inheritance.

They are slowly abandoned, since the occupations of the villagers are mainly connected to tourism and other services. Traditional professions are replaced and people lose connection with the earth.

Konakia and Pilala are two wonderful villages. Scattered castle houses and fortresses are connected in a harmonious way with the landscape. They entice the eye creating impressive images up to the peaks of mountain Taygetus and down to the sea of the Messinian Bay.

Ant Roumaneas

Karvelas is the Municipal Compartment of Gythion Municipality; it consists of the villages Karvela, Gefiraki and Petrovouni. It has 248 inhabitants (census 2001), whereas it is built on a wooded area.

The fortresses of the village take us back to the past. Dimitrakakos’ house with the cylindrical corner cages is an architectural example. It is distinguished for its peculiar shape and imposing construction.

The structure of the villages, the lay out, the orientation, the typology, the materials, the construction follow repeated common, simple and steady principles, which have been the core of modern constructions and villages.

In the last few years, there is a tendency to preserve tradition, meaning the characteristics of this place. Although nowadays there are no more cultivated groves and folds, there are still many details that remind of the vividness of Karvelas in the past. Many generations lived in the village and this is noticeable by the collapsed stonewalls. Those who live there now cannot put the stones back in their place. The new generation now lives in other places.

The locked houses do not create a feeling of melancholy; on the contrary one thinks that the residents are sleeping. Some of the houses are open, whereas some others have been renovated and some others have collapsed. The inhabitants left mostly due to unemployment. So they abandoned their houses and they collapsed. Nowadays many people come back and in summertime the village is crowded; then everything gets back to normal.

Karvelas has many hidden beauties. If they were all discovered and developed, the villagers would be more satisfied.

Antonis Roumaneas

Karea is a Municipal compartment of Vytilo Municipality that consists of the villages Karea and Boutselianika. It is part of the mountainous zone of Vytilo Municipality and covers an area of 4000000m2 at an altitude of 540m above sea level. The population scale has often changed during the last 60 years. According to the census recordings in 1940, there were 176, in 1951, 144 inhabitants, in 1961, 95, in 1971, 52, in 1981, 81, in 1986, 86 and in 2001, 91. The name of the village possibly comes from the chestnut trees surrounding the area. The village is traditional with old and new houses built on the hillside. The church of Agios Nicolaos is imposing. The central square with the big fir-tree offers a view to the surrounding villages. Walking up, we come to another square with plenty of running water coming from an underground spring that offers refreshment and relaxation to the visitor.

The landscape consists of piles of stones, which are remnants of old houses. There are, of course, the new houses built in the green surroundings that lighten the image of the infertile and hard land.

More and more people want to share the beauty of the nature. So, they come back to their birthplace. The writer, journalist and chronographer Jeorgios Tsibidaros originates from this village. He was known by his nickname Jeorgios Fteris. His brother Vasilis Tsibidaros (captain Tsibidas) was the commander of Captain Germas’ military troop who fought for the liberation of Macedonia. He was killed on 16-07-1907 at Losnitsa in Kastoria.

The area has suffered from the fires that broke out last August.

Those who have the authority should take care of the people’s fair demands.

Ant. Roumaneas

Municipal compartment of Vytilo Municipality. It consists of the villages Germa and Avramianika. It is built 300 meters above sea level and has 51 inhabitants (census 2001), whereas in 1991, it had 57 and in 1989, 203. It consists of 10 small villages built on Taygetus slopes. It is watered by natural fountains, whereas the climate is dry and healthy. Close to Germa, there is the derelict during the Turkish Occupation village called Kolliazi. In the village, there is the temple Metamorphosis tou Sotiros, which is an old Christian construction. In addition, there is the Byzantine temple Agios Nicolaos (11th Century), which is decorated with built-in marbles and wonderful frescos.

On the churchyard, there is a monument devoted to the heroes of Germa, as well as two busts of the Macedonian heroes captain Germa and captain Lia. Their contribution to the struggle against the Bulgarians was significant. Nicolaos Tsotakos (captain Germas) served as a lieutenant at the army at Trikala. He came to Macedonia with 50 men (mostly Maniats). The commander was Vasilios Tsibidaros (captain Tsibida) and the chieftain was the sergeant Theodoros Madouvalos (captain Taygetus). The purpose was to take revenge for the death of their compatriot captain Litsa (lieutenant Antoni Vlahaki). He met with captain Zaka (lieutenant Greg. Falireas) at Losnitsa, in order to organise their plan; however, they were betrayed by the Bulgarians. This was the place were the 300 soldiers of Leonida had fought in ancient Greece. At this cruel battle of 16th July 1907, captain Germas, Vasilios Tsibidaros and 23 soldiers died. 11 severely injured were arrested.

Captain Germas was a heroic figure; although he didn’t write history, he led exceptional lads to an act of self-sacrifice. To honour Tsotakos, Losnitsa was renamed as Germa.

The newspaper “ΘΑΡΡΟΣ” of Kalamata (issue 2536, 24th July 1097) wrote amongst others about Zaka and Germas:

“It is with great sorrow that the city of Kalamata-the centre of Messinia and Laconia hears about the death of those heroes. It was like a thunder that devastated the city. It wasn’t the size of the loss but the unexpectedness of the event. 50 soldiers from Taygetus and Ithomi were massacred during the defence of their brothers and beliefs…” (The contribution of Mani at the Macedonian War 1904-1908, by Dikaios V. Vagiakakos).

Ilias Hionakos (captain Lias) participated too at the battle of Losnitsa. He was heavily injured, but he survived and took part in the following wars. When he was demobilized, he was already major general. He was honoured repeatedly with medals for his contribution to the National struggles.

To the south part of Germa, just before Kelefa, there is the monastery of Panagia Spileotisa that was recently renovated. Now the church is like an eagle’s nest built inside the rocks that surround the Mylolagado gorge. The access to the monastery is via country road.

The scene is of exquisite beauty, whereas human interference brought out the beauty of the place.

Germa is a beautiful place that has no reason to be jealous of other places. Apart from the impressive natural beauty, the villagers play an important role to the development of the place. People are serious, honest, with dignity, whereas their life is connected to nature and farming.

Antonis Roumaneas

Mina is the Municipal Compartment of Vytilo with 375 inhabitants (census 2001) that consists of many scattered villages around the center of the compartment, such as the village Mina with 89 inhabitants, Agiadaki with 23, Aghios Jeorgios with 14, Vamvaka with 51, Erimos with 17, Karynia with 36, Kouloumi with 23, Koutrela with 2, Mezapos with 25, Lakkos with 52, Briki with 16, Polemitas with 27 and Mermigianika with no permanent inhabitants. They are all traditional villages with the colors of Mani. The olive groves, the traditional towers, the stone houses, the cypress trees and the prickly pears along with the remnants of the Byzantine monuments take us back to the past. In Mina, Aghios Petros, Aghii Anargyri and Archangel Michael are all Byzantine temples of the 13th Century. In Vamvaka, Aghios Theodoros is of the 11th Century and in Karynia, Aghios Jeorgios is of the 13th Century. Also, Taxiarches and Aghia Triada are of the 12th Century. In Kouloumi, there is Kapetanakos tower with the old canon. In Erimo, Aghia Varvara is of the 12th Century and in Aghios Jeorgios there is Voudigaris tower which is built after the revolution.

These are just some of the impressive sights of the area. We have already written about Mezapos (December 2004, Issue 69).

The maintenance of the traditional architecture, the protection of the environment and the promotion of the historic and cultural character of the area should be the primary concern. Uphill roads and narrow lanes lead to places of calmness and relaxation. On the way, there are many trees that produce olive oil of the best quality, whereas some new constructions appear without disturbing the landscape, though. Traditional architecture and guarded development concerns all of us. The inhabitants are happy people, relaxed and relieved from stress. The colors and sounds of nature exchange and create pictures of which even the best painters would be jealous.

Prickly pears, olive trees, stone hills, mountains, small villages and churches constitute the scenery of Mesa Mani with Taygetus mountain rising up above it. The way there is full of turns, up and down hill roads in  good and bad condition but above all very narrow so that the traveler is in real contact with the cypress trees, the olives trees and the chapels.

The area is slowly transforming according to the demands of the our times to a place of attraction. It is ready to hug the visitor.

Every stone is dream like in the uniqueness of the scenery. The plainness, the nakedness and the hard beauty of the stone are not the ghost of the past. They are witnesses of the history surrounded by the magic of nature.

Ant. Roumaneas

Kounos is the Municipal Compartment of Vytilo Municipality that consists of the following villages: Kounos, Aghia Kyriaki, Aghios Athanasios, Drys, Elaia, Kalopyrgo, Karava, Keria, Kypoula, Lagoudia, Pagia, Stavri and Trohalaka. It is built at 180 meters above sea level; the whole compartment has 356 inhabitants (census 2001), whereas in 1991 it had 465. Although Mani loses part of its population, it is still alive and strong like its stones.

The structure of the villages, the uphill roads, the stone houses, the Byzantine churches and the towers have all left their mark in time.

Aghia Kyriaki is the look out post at Mezapos’ bay. At Kounos, there is the five floor tower that belongs to Dikaiopoulos family and the stone tower-houses which are the property of Papadogona and Tragoulianos families. At Pagia, there is Petrogonas tower house, whereas at Stavri, there is Tsitsiris tower that operates as a traditional guesthouse.

Stone, wood and tiles are the basic materials for constructions, whereas the lanes that lead to the centre of the villages highlight the unique features of the place.

The scattered churches are also interesting; they are decorated with frescos and sculptures, such as “Pentagioi”, the two chapels with decoration of the 12th century, Aghios Sotiras and Aghios Mamas. Ahios Nikitas and Aghios Sotiras are dated back to 13th century, in village Drys, whereas Aghios Ioannis in Keria is a masterpiece of Byzantine art of the 12th century. Panaghia and Aghios Dimitrios still maintain their glory, despite the marks left by time. We shouldn’t forget mentioning Aghios Dimitrios in Kypoula.

Remnants of the past and witnesses of a glorious past! All over the place, there is a lyrical harmony that proves the eternal and time lasting course of our ancestors. A whole world built under these mountains, on the stones and the infertile earth of Mani after a lot of struggle, discipline and precision. Every stone is a surprise. The simple, naked, cruel beauty of the stone and the ruins are not just ghosts of the past. They are witnesses of our history.

Like all the villages of Mani, in the area of Kounos, the villages had as main occupation, farming and cattle breeding. In 1960, after the migrations, the way of life changed. Cattle breeding and farming cover now only basic needs.

The climate is healthy and calm with various natural beauties that attract visitors, especially, during summertime.

This place has remained untouched by development. Every thought about progress should be carefully studied. The sizes and new models applied to other places in Mani had tragic results. Ecotourism should educate about the environment and not alter the personality of the local communities. This seems to be the best solution for the revival of the economically deficient alpine areas.

This beautiful alpine corner hidden under the foothills of Taygetus maintains its uniqueness and the memories of another Greece, which is distant but not forgotten.

Municipal Compartment of Vytilo Municipality, Kelefa village has 59 permanent inhabitants (census 2001). Kelefa is a balanced, elegant and friendly village with both traditional and modern aspects.

In 1618, it had 600 inhabitants, in 1928, 247 and in 1991, 114. Despite the decline in population, as in the rest of Mani, it is still alive. It sits at 240 meters above sea level. To the West, there is the superimposing reknowned Kelefa castle. It was built in the 17th century, around 1670, for defensive purposes, but mainly to protect the commercial port of Vytilo from Kaze Ali and is an example of Turkish architecture. In 1685, it was occupied by the Venetians after a siege. All those years, it served as the headquarters of Hasan Pasha. They appointed Vernando Vlavi as general supervisor of the castle. They transformed it to one of the most powerful castles of Peloponnese, but kept it until 1715, when it was again taken by the Turks. Today, it lies abandoned like many other monuments of Mani waiting for human protection. The surrounding walls, two towers, one canon and some deserted buildings inside still exist. The view from the castle is wonderful with the sunrays falling on the blue waters of Vytilo bay.

Built in a gorge, the village maintains traditional architecture both in the old and new houses in a unifying way. Some of them are permanent residencies and some others are used only in summer.

Walking around the cobbled lanes, the visitor gets to know a different side of the village; that of the elders. The smell of homemade food, the chat of the housewife with her neighbour, the return from the Mass of an old couple, the Greek coffee at the traditional kafeneio and two words with the good-hearted old men are all images that are rarely seen nowadays.

Beauty and harmony coexist. Everything seems so ideal. A sense of calmness, peacefulness and serenity is all around. Images of the scented herbs and sounds of the leaves and the flying birds also add to this atmosphere.

Old Kelefa still maintains features of the glorious past. The picturesque cobbled lanes and the stone houses preserve their traditional colour.  The dressed stones and the wonderful arches uphold the style of an old but cared for village.

Antonis Roumaneas.