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PROSILIO 

Prosilio Smynou is a local compartment of Smynou Municipality. Following the roundabout road that leads from Melitini to Archontiko and after crossing the village Lemonia, we come to Prosilio. It’s a sunny village covered by sun all day long; of course, it owes its name to its position. On the marble fountain of the village, there is a built-in statue, which was found in the area. Starting from this spot the visitor can go to the Princess Cave and other antiquities down at Smynos River.

The village has panoramic view to the gorge of river Smynos, which, during the last few years, is a place of visit of Walking Clubs and individual hikers. The view, at the square of the village, towards Prophet Elias is wonderful.

Prosilio belongs to the semi alpine zone of the Municipality and covers an area of 4,5 km2, of which the 2,9km2 is cultivated land and the rest is pastoral land either private or public. At the census in 2001, there were 168 inhabitants, in 1940, 383 inhabitants, in 1961, 251 inhabitants, in 1971, 147 inhabitants, in 1981, 164 and in 1991, 104.

The sacred temple of the Assumption Of the Virgin is the parish church of the village. The external walls are elaborate and meticulous, whereas inside there are plenty of impressive frescos.

The villagers are sociable, hospitable and quiet. They occupy themselves with olives, citrus fruits and domestic cattle breeding.

The beauty of the landscape is generous, exciting all the senses. Forests with oak trees, plane trees, bushes, and big variety of flowers with many colours compose a landscape of exquisite beauty amongst the few houses and the vastness of nature.

Beautiful village that lives away from Gods and men within simplicity based on the soul of the few inhabitants. A village of great beauty with the ornaments of the place, which are all very beautiful but most of them poor and abandoned in their destiny. The images succeed one another; staying is possible in the neighbouring villages; serenity is the rule not the exception, whereas natural nutrition replaces technology.

The area has especially rich and diverse natural environment, as it shows rich geomorphology with intense contradictions.

Superimposing mountains caves and gorges, rivers, impressive landscapes give the opportunity to the visitor to explore the gorges, the caves and the waterfalls of River Smynos learning at the same time the wonderful variety of the flora generally in the area.

Antonis Roumaneas

PETRINA

Local compartment of Smynos Municipality. On the road Aigies-Arna, we first come across Petrina. This is the biggest local compartment of the Municipality with 450 inhabitants (census 2001). Of course, in summertime, they are more than 1000. The population has had many fluctuations till now. In 1940, it was 942 inhabitants, in 1951, 908, in 1971, 448, in 1981, 444 and in 1991, 309. Petrina belongs to the lowland of the Municipality and covers an area of 29.400.000m2. The 7.000.000m2 are cultivated area, the 15.000.000m2 are forested area and the rest is pastoral land.

As in the rest of Mani, Petrina went through the immigration flow to USA and Canada. As a result, people coming from Petrina, created centres over there and never forgot the place where they come from. They often visit Petrina and even contribute financially to the development of their village.

The history of the village is very old. Firstly, in 1304, Petrina is mentioned along with the hagiographer Theodoros Petriniotis in written sources. In Byzantine times, Petrina, along with Geraki and Mystras is also mentioned. In the National Struggle, in 1821, the inhabitants of Petrina took part in the liberation struggle and prove to be noteworthy heroic personalities and national benefactors, such as the first mayor of Krokees, who had his headquarters in Petrina, Panagiotis Anagnostakis, who offered a significant amount of money to the struggle. Indisputable proof about the participation of the inhabitants of Petrina to the struggles of the nation is the old canon in Rahidi from 1821, as well as plenty of photographic material about their participation to the Macedonian Struggle in 1st and 2nd World War.

In recent times, the Agricultural Cooperation of Petrina, founded in 1915, acquired the “Protected Designation of Origin” for the olive oil they produce.

The Union of Attorneys (before 1907) and later the Welfare Institution of Petrina, is active offering services to the society. In the area, there is, since 1915, the aqueduct and the abattoir. Additionally, in Petrina there is the KEΠ of the Municipality.

In Petrina, one can try his shooting abilities at the shooting centre near the road Gythion-Sparta. It should be noted that the natural and animal richness of the area has led to the creation of a refuge for partridges, hares and pheasants.

In Petrina, there are many churches; some are built in the beginning of the 19th century with important frescos and icons. Prophet Eias, Ai Jiorgis, Ai Thanasis, Ai Dimitrios, are all Byzantine churches of the 13th century. Panagitsa at Hiotika, constructed in 1800, has important frescos and icons, too. There are also Agios Panteleimon built in 1900, Sotiros church in 1900 and Agii Apostoloi Petros and Pavlos, which is the parish church at the central square of the village with important frescos.

In Petrina, one can visit the springs Housou Platani, which are traditional springs, where a statue of the ancient Greek times was found; this is kept at the archaeological museum in Sparta. The big poet and academic Nikiforos Vrettakos comes from Petrina and his name is listed in the files of the community.

In the village, there is an atmosphere of creation. In this effort, the collective activity of the inhabitants plays an important role. This is expressed through the Welfare Institution and the Agricultural Cooperation. Innovative institutions that were formed decades ago are still active in everyday life and ameliorate the living conditions of the area.

PALIOVRYSI

It is a local compartment at Smynos Municipality. It belongs to the semi mountainous zone and covers an area of 360 km2; the 100 km2 are cultivated area, the 350 Km2 is forest and the rest pastoral land. The population of the village was in 1940, 293 inhabitants, in 1991, 125 and in 2001, 200. In the last few years, locals and immigrants that had abandoned their village, come back, in summer months, creating a happy image and enjoying at the same time the tranquil stay.

The inhabitants are basically farmers and cattle breeders. They shape, with the particularities of their small society, the whole character of the area adapting their life to the characteristics of the environment.

The road to Palaiovrysi goes by the local compartment of Melitini. When you enter the village, you are impressed by the very beautiful square that was created with the personal work of the villagers.

Elegant houses, others new others renovated, with a really interesting architecture are the ornament of the village.

The last few years, taking advantage of the program Leader II from the Developmental Company of Mani, the community council, at that time, went through the construction of a guesthouse and café, exploiting a building of the village. They completed the project very fast, promoting the development of the village and attracting many tourists both from the neighbouring areas and all over Greece.

Palaiovrysi is a meeting point of alternative tourism in Arna and Vasiliki forest. Apart from the natural beauties and the cool climate that characterizes the area, there is a live museum with monuments, the Byzantine monastery of Agios Jeorgios with the Byzantine icons and the cemetery of the Priests on the road that connects Palaiovrysi to Arna. It’s worth mentioning that the monastery is active and has founded villages in many parts of the area, such as Pritsa village in Gythion. There are cisterns from Byzantine times, which used to water the village.

The springs at Kryo nero and Maganio are some of the places worth visiting.

Agios Nicolaos is the parish church of the village, whereas there are chapels with important frescos, which have been destroyed by some people who believed in the superiority of their own truth. In our days, only a few of us know about their existence, but still the chapels stay firm, through the years and seasons, and they remind to the few visitors of old and forgotten times.

The Cultural Association “Agios Jeorgios” unites all the villagers of Palaiovrysi and leads them to progress and development.

MELITINI

Local compartment of Smy-nos Municipality. It consists of the villages Melitini, Agia Marina and Lemonea. At the census in 2001, 242 inhabitants were recorded. At previous surveys, the population at times increased and decreased. In 1940, there were 546 inha-bitants, in 1961, 362, in 1971, 211, in 1981, 217 and in 1991, 184. It belongs to the semi-mountainous zone of the Municipality and covers an area of 13,6 km2. The 3 km2 is cultivated land, the 0.6 km2 is pastoral land and the rest is forest.

Melitini takes its name from the old Melitini Municipality. The first name was Zelina and then, in 1930, it was renamed. The name Zelina comes from the Slavic name Zlina which means green. It was dwelled in 750 AC from Slavic tribes (Miligi) that had immigrated to the mountainous areas of Taygetus after the permission of the Emperor Constantine V due to the desolation of the area and Laconia from the inhabitants that had been affected by the plague in 646 AC that had wiped out a big part of the population. The fact that the area has been dwelled by Slavs is confirmed by the names of the village and the surrounding ones (Rozova, Tseria, Pritsa, Liantina, Palova, Zerbitsa) as well as by the surrounding areas (Hadiakova, Filigrou, Avana). The first inhabitants were cattle breeders and later farmers.

Very fast the Slavs were assimilated by the locals and stopped being a Slavic part.

The village is at the centre of an imaginary circle that consists of the villages Petrina, Arna, Strontza, Pritsa. The strategic spot of the village helped the foundation of the first high school in 1926, whereas the primary school was founded by the General of 1821 Panagiotis Giatrakos. Nowadays, the school is open as the folklore museum and for social events.

Numerous buildings and ruins testify the history of the place. The temples of The Assumption of the Virgin (8th century) in Agia Marina and Agios Nicolaos in Melitini have been characterized as historical monuments by the Ministry of Culture. Agia Barbara is the parish church of the village.

Smynos River crosses Smynos Municipality and there are numerous springs that give the area a different view. The springs Paradi, Perovrysi and Pigadi are mentioned since ancient times and access there is possible through country roads.

The old Melitini Municipality had a stamp with “Hercules leaning on his club” and all around the words “Melitini Municipality” coming from a representation of an ancient coin 250-32 BC.

In the area, there is the Agricultural Cooperation of Olive Oil and the Cultural Association “Enotita” (unity).

Nowadays, the wind of change blows in the village. In this effort the Cultural Community Association plays an important role and contributes to the enlivening of the village.

The ornate bell tower of Agia Barbara and at the back Michaeleas tower which was the residence of the last Mayor of Melitini Kleomenis Michaelos.

MELISSA

Melissa is a village in Exo Prosiliaki Mani. The name Melissa is since 1958, whereas before it was called Malitsina, Maltsina and Maltzina.

Traditional village with stone built houses on a line of low cliffs that remind of a flying creature. In fact, this is the main reason it was called Melissa (=bee).

The ancient road that connected Gythion to Kardamyli, meaning Exo Prosiliaki and Aposkiaderi Mani, crosses the village. This made the village an important strategic place. The new road crosses the village, too.

There are three fountains close to the village with plenty of water, whereas the surroundings are exceptionally beautiful.

Today, it is the local compartment of Smynos Municipality that unfortunately, is, by mistake, recorded as Smynous Municipality.

It is a self-sufficient community since 1912 and one of the villages of the old Melitini Municipality since 1835. It was the centre of the Episcopate of Maltzini up to 1833; the last bishop was Filikos Joachim that participated and greatly contributed to the preparation of the revolution in 1821.

In Melissa, there is Heroitsa (or Roitsa) Monastery that is devoted to Holy Mother. The offer of the monastery in the pre revolutionary years was very important. Both Maltzina and the Monastery offered support and hospitality to the first kleft of Moreas Captain Zaharias Barbitsiotis, who organised his parapet close to Heroitsa, which we now call “the ruins of Zaharias”.

It’s worth mentioning the relation of Melissa to Smynos River, which was the last natural border of free Mani and the rest of Greece occupied by the Turks. Smynos offered the “pleasing water” (see Pausanias, ch. 24, verse 9,10) about the watering of ancient Gythion and the motion of the watermills. It still offers it today to water Exo, Kato and Mesa Mani and to produce electricity. The parish church of Melissa and ex episcopate, must be of the Byzantine Times and celebrates on the 21st November, the Assumption of Virgin Mary. The temple of the cemetery is also devoted to Holy Mother. There is a chapel in the memory of All Saints, whereas the rest of the seven chapels are devoted to different saints.

Today, they produce olive oil and Kalamata olives, they occupy themselves with cattle breeding, orchards and honey, whereas up to 1960 the basic income was from pines, figs and wine, all of exquisite quality.

Melissa has never been a big village; census 1835, 281 residents, 1907, 339, 1940, 275. Nevertheless, it was a vibrant village with big families, the members of which moved to Athens, Gythion, abroad to be finally distinguished in management, army, Education, Justice, politics, commerce, etc.

Unfortunately, the last few years, like in many other villages of Mani, there are no children born and the 100 residents recorded in 2001 are getting less and less.

Aristeidis Grafakos

KOKKINA LOURIA

Kokkina Louria (=Red Stripes) is a village in Exo Prosiliaki Mani; it is the so-called old community and the present Local Compartment of Smynos Municipality.

It sits at 400 meters above sea level, on the rocky part of an earthy hill of equal height, approximately 2km long that starts at the northeast foothills of Tavlabas and Ziziali and ends vertically at River Smynos. It belongs to the semi alpine zone of the Municipality and covers an area 6,4 km2; the 1,7km2 is cultivated land, planted mainly with olive trees and vines, fig trees and other trees. The 3 km2 is forest and the rest pastoral land.

The construction of the village in the present place seems to be new -after 1400- when the villagers of the old village, Goulianika, dwelled there permanently; at the steady red earth.

It seems that the village took its name from the red berms. There is another version. The name of the village comes from the stripes of the villagers’ clothes, which they used in order to tie the wounds of their co villagers after a confrontation with foreign enemies; so the stripes became red from the blood.

The historic village Desfina (Tsesfina) belonged, until 1940, to Kokkina Louria, then it was transcribed to community of Agios Nicolaos, whereas the area with the vineyards was divided in the two communities.

Kokkina Louria is on the country road Aigies-Kastania within a distance of 19 km from Gythion and 17 km from the monastery of Panagia Giatrissa.

The population of Kokkina Louria has fluctuated similarly to the majority of the villages of Mani. In 1835, there were 259 inhabitants, in 1851, 286 inhabitants, in 1907, 426 inhabitants, in 1920, 416 inhabitants, in 1929, 453 inhabitants, in 1940, 414 inhabitants, in 1954, 350 inhabitants, in 1991, 203 inhabitants. In 2001, 242 inhabitants were recorded, both locals and foreigners.

In the last years, Kokkina Louria is considered to be and it is one of the most dynamic villages of Dothe Riza and Smynos Municipality (or Smynous as it was mistakenly recorded). The villagers participate greatly and efficiently to the local and national events.

The parish church Evangelistria celebrates on the 25th March. The Holy Temple of Agios Dimitrios is an important place of pilgrimage at the end of the village with valuable frescos.

Until recently, Kokkina Louria lacked two basic infrastructure features, such as water and square. The spring of Ritziava was not enough for the watering of the village, whereas the water supply of the scarce water in 1960 from the spring Avorna in Kastania didn’t solve the problem. The spring Petra in the nearby village called Melissa, which is two kilometres away, was, in a way, a solution to the existing water shortage. The problem with the water was finally solved in 1969-1970, as well as in the broader area of Mani, after the exploitation of the waters of the springs Agia Marina of Smynos River.

The spacious square was formed in the last few years; it has exquisite view to the surrounding mountains of Taygetus, whereas at the background there is the highest peak of Taygetus “The distant Elias”, as it is called by the national poet of Mani Nikitas Nifakos.

At the end of the square, there is a community shop, which is a modern cafeteria-restaurant. The local Cultural Association organises every summer a ball and other events to which all the people from Kokkina Louria, both locals and from other places, participate and so reinforce the energy of their village. Such examples should be imitated.

Aristeidis Grafakos

ARHONTIKO

 

…”First is Kastanitza

renowned all over the world

Turks think

it’s drunk.,

Then, poor Selegoudi,

Kokkina Louria, Agios Nicolaos

and two other villages,

Maltzina is the one,

Arhontiko is the other

and there are no more”…

This is how Nikitas Nifos or Nifakos (1740-1818), the national poet of Mani, as he is called by the great Maniot poet Panos N. Panagiotounis, finishes the description of the villages of Exo Mani.

According to Nik. Nifakos, Arhontiko is the last village of Exo Prosiliaki Mani. Built on the right side of Smynos River, it is one of the villages of Dothe Riza, as we call the villages at the right side of the river. Arhontiko is the only village that has a direct view to the tranquil river after its wild course in the precipitous gorge.

Arhontiko is a Municipal Compartment of Smynos Municipality. Since 1912, it was a self-sufficient community. Village Sina that is opposite Arhontiko, next to the left side riverbank and above the riverbed of the tributary of the torrent Kolopana, used to belong to the community. Close to Sina, there are the impressive remnants of the ancient multi arched bridge, which was 100m long and served as the canal of the water from Smynos River -above Kolopana-up to ancient Gythion.

Since 1835 and until 1912, it was one of the villages of the old Melitini Municipality. It is a relatively small village, with 124 residents in 1835, 249 in 1907, 332 in 1940 and 102 in 2001.

Although it is a Maniot village it isn’t rocky. On the contrary, it is earthy, fertile rather flat and watered from drillings. In the past, it was watered by canals that led the water of the river to the furrows of the mill.

The villagers produce olive oil, olives, corn, vegetables, dairy products and meat.

In the village, there is the fountain that used to cover the needs of the village, whereas today Arhontiko is watered by the spring of Smynos, that is, Agia Marina.

It is 13km away from Gythion. It is amphitheatrically built on an olive trees hillside with wonderful view. The village is tidy, even though it doesn’t have tourist infrastructure.

Historically, it appears in the Muazzo Code in 1695 as villa Andronie, as well as in other Venetian documents of 1703 and 1705 as Arcodico and Arcondico.

It belongs to the low alpine zone of the Municipality and covers an area of 3.500.000m2. The 1.400.000m2 is cultivated area and the rest is pastoral land.

The parish church of the village is devoted to the Assumption of Virgin Mary and celebrates on the 15th August with a big feast organized by the Local Cultural Association.

Aristeidis Grafakos

SKAMNAKI

Local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It belongs to the alpine zone and covers an area of 13.000.000m2 from which the 1.300.000m2 are cultivated, whereas the rest is mainly pastoral land. The population has had many ups and downs. In 1940 it was 394, in 1951 306, in 1961 219, in 1971 144, in 1981 110, 1991 101 and in 2001 78.

The village is 5 km away from the junction Areopoli-Gythion. On both sides of the road, there are olive trees, fir trees, chestnut trees, and bushes. Slopes, and hills, all green! Wild cats, foxes, ferrets, small birds, turtle doves, chickadees, black birds, hawks and other kinds of animals find refuge to the woodland. Eerie scenery that gives to the sunset a supernatural beauty!

Walking around, one sees the main characteristics of the village, such as the narrowness, lack of places of common use, few and small yards and narrow lanes.

Picturesque churches are seen in many places. Without thinking about their value and age, the visitor assumes they were built yesterday. That well do they fit in the unaltered environment. Amongst these masterpieces, we see the parish church Panagia dated around 1900. In the churchyard, there is a monument devoted to those that fought and died for the sake of their country in different periods of time. Sotiras, which is an old church with recent interventions, still has on the temple traces of frescos. At the end of the village, there are Agios Dimitrios and Loukakos tower with good quality stone building technique; this is the guardian of the area.

The villagers at Skamnaki occupy themselves with agriculture and cattle breeding. Today this is limited. It is worth mentioning the participation of some farmers to organic cultivation programs.

Mani is mostly an alpine region since Taygetus forms its spine. The variety of the landscape, the unique scenery due to the rich flora and fauna create a new dimension and become the ideal destination for those who want to devote their free time to places that will offer them the most beautiful memories.

Ant Roumaneas

SIDIROKASTRO

It is a local Compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Sidirokastron, Mesohorion, Polyaravos, Skamnitsa and Skyfianika.

It belongs to the alpine zone and covers an area of 34.200.000m. The population has often fluctuated: 800 inhabitants (1940), 564 (1951), 451 (1961), 266 (1971), 181 (1981), 200 (1991) and 163 in the last census of 2001.

Sidirokastro is built on the hill with view to the vast horizon. Last summer, the fire threatened the village, but due to the coordinated efforts of the fire brigade and the villagers it was stopped.

The church Agia Kyriaki dedicated to the saint that protects the village is honoured on the 7th July.

Polyaravos has recently been transferred to the North. It is connected to Sidirokastro, whereas in order to arrive to the old village one has to walk through the traditional cobbled lane. The houses are built with stones on Ziziali hill, but they are now deserted. There are also many towers whereas Stathakos tower remains a symbol of struggle and sacrifice. Ibrahim was defeated at this place when after his failure in Verga and Diros, he attempted to subjugate Mani attacking from the east side.

At Panagia church (14th cent), there is the memorial from Polyaravos battle. Every year, on 15th August they celebrate the event with the participation of the representatives of the state and many people.

Skyfianika pops out from the coomb. It is very green and there are chestnut trees everywhere. The churches Agios Athanasios and Agios Nicolaos with the rare frescos denote the religious feelings of the inhabitants. There are many tower residencies, whereas those of Apostolakos and Pygadiotis family are really particular.

The group of the fighters that helped Maniats to the fight against Ibrahim set off from this village.

In all these places, life has been difficult, hard, and tiring. For this reason a big part of the population immigrated to big cities or abroad. Although, they may have lost the glory of the past, these villages are full of life in summertime when people originating from the area come back for holidays. The initiation of the cultural associations is important as they organise events that reinforce the bonds amongst them and tighten the social relations.

Ant. Roumaneas

PLATANOS (LIBERDO)

Local compartment of Gythion Municipality it consists of the villages Platanos and Psathakia. It is built on the lowland and it covers an area of 7.500.000m2. The 4.600.000m2 are cultivated, whereas the rest is mainly pastoral land. The population has had ups and downs. In 1940, there were 370 residents, in 1951, 337, in 1961, 323, in 1971, 202, in 1961, 216, in 1991, 208 and in 2001, 194.

The village is built on a glade. The temple of Agios Dimitrios, which is the religious monument of the area, is of Byzantine rhythm. It is built with stones, whereas inside there are still some frescos. It is built in the place of Poseidon’s temple. Looking around the village, there are some contradictions. There are some houses, which are samples of traditional architecture and less modern. The narrow lanes on the two sides of the central road are particular, but they should be maintained. However, contradictions create a dynamic atmosphere, which becomes recognisable and friendly and becomes, after all, an advantage. The charm that comes out of the beautiful ugliness. It is the charm of the ugliness whish is authentic caused by uncontrolled building activity. Although this is a sad story it is not unusual, as it occurs all over Greece.

The flora of the area is very rich. There is a big variety of wild flowers.

The beauty of nature wants to be cherished by more and more people, who arrive to this beautiful part of Mani.

Platanos is the typical village with powerful images from the everyday life of the locals. The village lives on tourism, from olives and cattle breeding. In summer, local visitors and guests come to enjoy the coolness of the place and to live and remember images from the past. Nevertheless, this is not an everyday habit nor can this support financially the village. There are no guesthouses, only traditional kafenia, where the villagers meet in the evening to talk about everyday issues.

These are also images of the life of a village. Platanos may be a normal village without many facilities, but it attracts the visitor to come back again.

Ant. Roumaneas