East Mani is separated from the West by a part of Taygetos, which reaches Tainaro and is called “The Arm Of Mani” These two areas communicate via the gorges. One of them leads from Areopoli, which is the capital of western Mani, to Kolokinthio Municipality in east Mani. In between, extends Taygetos. Before arriving at Asini, the capital of Kolokinthio Municipality, in the entrance of the valley, we come across the village Kavvalos, which is inhabited by 60 families. I don’t exactly know the reasons why the residents moved, during the medieval times, from the ancient place to a higher area. The ruins from that dwelling are still present. Maybe, because of the water, which comes from the mountainside and sweeps along several materials that contribute to the fertility of the ground and render it suitable for the cultivation of wheat and barley. This procedure is done in a natural way, because nature has created in the fields the so-called “vithistra” (sinking spots) where the water sinks. Maybe, the water sinks in a gorge or an underground cave and flows in Diro, south of Areopoli. It must be taken into consideration that Laconia is full of tunnels and gaps in the ground, while the surface is lying in the air.

The village Kavvalos was dwelled by Greeks, which is proven by an inscription, I found there that referred to someone called Damosthenis. The letters of the inscription are barely distinguishable, because the square stone on which it was written, who knows how many years ago, was adopted by an ancient building and then it was swept by a current to another place, which is called Filiatri, where there are deep wells, where from the residents take water. I suppose the ancient name of the village was Filiatri and not Kavvalos. The present inhabitants maintained the ancient name and due to this natural need for water they call the wells Filiatri. In the place of Kavvalos, coins and rings were found; one of them has a carved fish on top.

Consequently, we come to the conclusion that during the ancient times, Greeks lived in the area, but either due to the flood or due to other reasons, they moved higher and later they came back to the ancient place, where they built their houses again. Some of them even built their houses on the ruins.

Athanasios Petridis-Head of Areopoli School(1870).

Municipal Compartment of Gythion with 146 residents, Karyoupoli consists, according to the census of 2001, of the village of Karyoupoli (39 residents), Vryses (39 residents), Laggada (35 residents) and Prytova (33 residents). In former days, it was the capital of Gythion. It lies on the eastern part of Taygetus and NE of Gythion. This superb and imposing Byzantine village bears memories and deeds of a glorious past. It was the Byzantine center of Mani and the headquarters of the Episcope, the ruins of which are still preserved close to the castle of Karyoupoli, which belonged to the Diocese of Lacedaemon or to the Diocese of Monemvasia.

After the fall of Mystras, follows the decline. Relics of the Byzantine period are the Tower, the church of Ag Nikolaos (13^th Cent.), remnants from graves and cisterns and constructions of that time.

The fortress of Kavallierakis and Fokas, as well as the tower of Kosonakos, a masterpiece of 19^th Cent, built on the highest spot of the hill, blocked the way to Mani. On the west, there is the temple of Ag. Petros and next to the tower of Kosonakos there is the temple of Virgin Mary.

The contribution of the families Kavallierakis and Kosonakos to the liberation of the State has been multiple.

Kavallierakis Ravoulios; He participated to the siege of Tripoli and Nauplio in 1821 and fell in a battle in Kioski in Nauplio in 20^th August 1822.

Kavallierakis Theodoros; He took part in the siege of Monemvasia, Tripoli, Nauplio and Corinth. In the descent of Ibrahim, he bravely fought at the Messinian fortresses. In the battle of Diros, he was deprived with other 5 fighters; he confronted a mass of Egyptians.

Kosonakos-Fokas Jeorgios: he served in the army during the revolution in Crete in 1866, when as the leader of a platoon of volunteers came to Crete and was put under the orders of Dimitrios Petroulakis. He bravely fought taking part in 1867 in the battles in Pediada (Kara Pigadi) and in Malevizio (the gorge of Vathypetro) against Omer Pasha.  He left Crete in the end of 1867 by the ship Arkadi, which was sank and so he drowned.

Kosonakos Ilias: He volunteered in the revolution of Crete in 1866 in the volunteers’ troop, which was under the command of his brother and fought on his side.

Kosonakos Konstantinos (1843-1910): He studied law and at a very young age, he devoted himself to politics. In fact, he was elected deputy of Laconia with the party of Harilaos Trikoupis. He served as director of the governmental police in Athens; when he came back to politics in 1865, during the government of Trikoupis, he served as Minister of Education.

The people of Karyoupoli are not above 60 years old and occupy themselves with olives and cattle rising. Only for a few months do they welcome those who come to cherish the peacefulness of the village and the surrounding nature. Then, the houses are alive again and the square is full with familiar faces and children that give life and meaning to the village.

Karyoupoli is more than 12 centuries old; it is really a village of exquisite beauty.

It’s been centuries of history for a place full of memories, immortal like the soul of people.

Karyoupoli should be dealt as a huge place of civilization, which should be respected.

In order for a civilization to stay alive the memory should stay alive, too. Karyoupoli should keep the memory of the past, restructuring its identity with time lasting original characteristics.

Ant. Roumaneas

History:

It is not historically proven when and by whom the ancient Gythion was built. There is only a myth that it was built both by Apollo and Hercules after they came in terms with each other (Pausanias II21,8). This is the reason why it was called “Gaia of Gods” (Land of Gods). This tradition that Gythion is one of the most ancient cities in Laconia, since it was built in mythical times, is only theoretical. Homer does not speak of it apart from island Kranai, whereas he mentions the cities Avgia on our side and Lax to the south.

It is possible that Gythion was overshadowed by the city Las, until it was destroyed and declined. Pausanias, Oratios, Ovidios and Markalios praised the scarlet clothing in Laconia. It is proven from inscriptions that in Gythion there was the acme of a Roman commercial colony, since Roman bankers, due to the acme of commerce and industries of scarlet clothing and marbles, rendered it to an important commercial and exporting center.

Xenofon refers to Gythion as the military port of Sparte. The Athenian Talmidis conquered Gythion in 456BC. In 410BC, Alkiviades was spying, if they were recruiting new navy after his victory in Kyziko. In 370BC, it is conquered by Thivei, whereas Isidas and Gythii take it back in 388BC using the trick of the nudist contests and the hidden swords with which they massacred Thivei. In 222BC, Philippe invades Gythion. The social changes by the king of Sparte Navi (207 BC) were very important for the whole area of Mani. Many wealthy people from Sparte came to Mani choosing mostly places near the sea, like Gythio, Las, etc. Mani becomes more independent politically and financially from Sparte with the creation of the autonomous confederation of the cities in southern Laconia. Since that era and up to the first centuries AC, Gythion was equal to the flourishing cities of Greece, such as Corinth, Thessalonica, Nikopoli, Mantinia, since it had become an important center of commerce. It had richness of natural products, such as marbles and fabrics, which served the luxurious tastes of the Romans at that time. During that time, most of the temples, the theatre, and the baths as well as the aqueduct of Gythion were erected.

The period of development of the Roman times is followed by the first Byzantine years, during which Mani becomes part of Macedonia (337 AC). In 375 AC, a powerful earthquake destroys parts of the city. The Goths in 395 AC destroy Sparte, which is in decline, finishing off the results of the earthquake.

During the 4^th Cent, the Confederation is also torn apart.

After the 6^th Cent, it falls to invisibility.

In 1836AC, the new city is founded in the place of the old and keeps the same name.

Monuments and sightseeing: It is worth mentioning the theatre in the NW of Gythion constructed during the Roman times with stones. On the SE there was the ancient market, which was extended up to the coast. The statues of Apollo and Hercules decorated the market. There were also the statues of Dimitra, Dionysus and Asclepiads. 50m above the theatre, there are the remains of a wall from the citadel of the city. On the citadel, there used to be the temple of Athena. Near the temple of Agia Triada there was the graveyard that belongs to the Hellenistic times and on the west of the city a semicircular space, where the conferences were taking place.

The museum of Gythion has important collections of inscriptions, coins, pottery, etc.

The island Kranai is the jewelry of Gythion. Since 1898 it is connected to the city by a breakwater, which made the port safer and rendered the communication of the villagers easier. According to mythology Kranai was the bridal place of the godlike Alexander and the kidnapped Belle Helene. Kranai was inhabited in the Neolithic era and was of great importance during the Mycenaean period. During the medieval times it was called Marathonisi, because the island was covered by fennels (marathos). This was also the name of Gythion during the pre revolutionary years and in 1821. During the last years of the Turkish Rule, the tower of Tzanet-Bey was built, which is now renovated and operates as a Historical and National museum with rich exhibits.

The lighthouse of Kranai was constructed in 1873 with marble from Tainaro. The building has eight corners and is 23m tall. It is one of the best lighthouses in Greece for the harmonious lines and the luxurious construction. The surface is decorated with natural green floor, olive trees and wooden bends for the visitors.

That’s all for Gythion of the past. We shall refer to Gythion of the present in the following issue.

Ant. Roumaneas

It is one of biggest local compartments of Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Aigies, Malliaris, Sykia and Synora. At the census, in 2001, there were 319 inhabitants. The population has many times changed. In the past, the population either increased or decreased. In 1940, there were 188 inhabitants, in 1951, 250, 1961, 449, in1971, 326, 1981, 302 and in 1991, 291. Aigies is part of the lowland at the Municipality and covers an area of 7.300.000m². The 6.100.000m² are cultivated and the rest is pastoral land.

It is on the NW part of Gythion whereas the road Gythion –Sparte passes through the village. In the past, it was called Koutoumou.

The area is of archaeological interest,too. At the place of ancient Aigies (Pano Koutoumou) archaeological findings were located after excavations; part of them is exhibited at the Museum of Antiquities in Sparte. The old name “Hania Koutoumou” has to do with the fact that there were places of relaxation (hania) were people and animals could take temporary rest on their way to Sparte.

A short tour to the village brings us close to its natural beauty and creations of mankind.

The church Metamorfosis is imposing, whereas next to it, there is still the older so called little church. There are many arguments on whether it should be maintained or not. The feast at Metamorfosis day is very important; it is celebrated with special honours, whereas at the same day the Local Cultural Association organises the local feast.

Other important churches are Zoodohos Pigi, Agios Petros and Ai Lias at the cemetery.

The villagers occupy themselves with olive and wheat cultivation and cattle breeding for domestic use. At the area, there is a factory of Kalamata olives processing. 5-6 people are employed, whereas the biggest part of the product is exported.

The area has many subterranean waters that are used to water the plain. The watering system is connected to the springs of Agia Marina at Smynos Municipality.

The basic products of the village are olive oil, edible olives, oranges and honey. The building of the old school is temporarily used by the High school of Professions.

Aigies is a well taken care of village that still maintains big part of its population. There are 2-3 kafeneia and the traditional taverna next to Sotiras church.

It is a magnificent village with beautiful houses, green sceneries, trees, flowers and orchards.

Ant. Roumaneas

Agios Vasileios is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It is part of the lowland and consists of the villages Agios Vasileios, Agios Efstratios and Monahis Sikias. The census in 2001 recorded 180 inhabitants, whereas the population is constantly decreasing. In 1940, there were 290 inhabitants, in 1951, 259, in 1961, 268, in 1971, 222, in 1981, 195 and in 1991, 180. It sits on the west side of Gythion, only 2 km from the country road Areopoli-Gythion Sparta. It covers an area of 5.400.000 m², half of which is cultivated area and the rest pastoral land.

All those attracted to the beauty of nature will not be disappointed when they arrive here. Soon, they will come to the green scenery away from the dull images of the cemented cities. Wandering in the lanes of the village, the visitor feels euphoria and wholeness. He will not come here to discover archaeological sites, historic monasteries or museums, but to enjoy the contact with nature during a short break from the intense rhythms of urban life.

Agios Vasileios church, which is the parish church of the village was built a few years ago. Agia kyriaki, Panagitsa and Ai Jiannis are some of the chapels of the area.

Agios Ioannis is the name of the Cultural Association of the village that organizes on 28^th August, on the eve of Agios Ioannis name day, the annual feast.

During summer, the village is full with summer visitors that come back for a few days to their birthplace.

Agios Vasileios and the villages are picturesque places that maintain their local colors. Four-sided tiled roofs, stonewalls, some plastered walls, beautiful houses surrounded by flowers, all very neat and clean. The old vine arbour is also present. The yards of the houses become the cool place to sit in hot summer months. White benches, colourful pots with basil, mint, roses and night flowers. The orchards offer delicious and pure vegetables.

The water comes from the springs at Agia Marina. The basic occupation of the inhabitants is olive cultivation and cattle breeding.

Part of the inhabitants works in Gythion. The young people who are still in the village fight to make ends meet. They never stop looking for new ways that will keep them connected to their birthplace.

Agios Vasileios isn’t a destination for tourists. There are no guesthouses, no coffee shops, no tavernas and bars. However, the beauty of the place is magic and enchants the visitor.

Ant Roumaneas

Ageranos is the community of the Municipal Compartment Neochorion Gythio. It is built on a small peninsula, which is related, by mythology to Achilles and his son Pyrros. It consists of 14 inhabitants (census 2001). It used to be the headquarters of Antonobey Grigorakis who is the 5^th Bey of Mani (1803-1808), whereas three members from the Grigorakis family became Beys, whose leadership lasted for 26 years. The fortress (a complex of towers), which belonged to Antonobey and the church of Taxiarches immediately attract the visitor’s interest. The main road as well as three other towers that belong to Antonobey’s relatives follow. All the constructions are 200 years old. The traditional features of the buildings are not only external. As one crosses the threshold, one sees the tradition alive in the interior parts, too.

The village is now a secondary place of residence. As in all the villages of the area, there is scarce cultivation of the land.

Nature has left its traces generously in this village. Picturesque beaches with blue waters. A resort endowed with a long sandy beach. This part of Mani is very green; bushes and big oak trees cover the cliffs. New guesthouses suddenly appear in many places of the community, so as to satisfy the increasing demands of the summertime visitors. Stone houses, rooms to rent, traditional and modern hotels, and well-organized camping places surround the area up to the hill. The view is outstanding, however towards the sea the image changes. Here the ground is level and the buildings are bigger. The entire place creates a sense of warmth and affinity. To the parts where the landscape is broader, the land is calmer and it surrenders to the orange and olive trees.

Mystifying monuments for defense against the pirates and aspiring conquerors, towers, proud constructions, all imposing and prestigious, offer special moments of calmness and peacefulness reminiscing past times.

The community has an increasing tourist flow. The natural beauties, the friendly atmosphere, the various and quality services guarantee a pleasant stay. If someone wants to do something more active, Gythion is close by and so one can also enjoy the intense nightlife, the rich artistic activities and the cultural events.

Ant. Roumaneas

Sotirianika is the Municipal compartment at Avia Municipality and belongs to the alpine region. It is built on the foothills of Taygetus. It has dense vegetation and exquisite beauty. However, it is out of the central roads, so if someone wants to go there, he has to take the junction at the 12^th km on the country road Kalamata-Areopoli.

Village Haravgi (Trikotsova) belongs to the Compartment.

Population-Occupation

There are 293 inhabitants (census 1991) who occupy themselves with olive growing and cattle breeding (3 flocks with sheep and goats). The family income is increased by cattle breeding and orchards.

History-Monuments

The village is very old since at the area “Hrysa” they have found Mycenaean findings of great historical value, which have been unfortunately depredated and there is nothing else known about these until today.

Within a short distance, there is Marvinitsa, which is an old town, according to tradition, which used to have 3-4.000 inhabitants. Today only the ruins of some churches are preserved and that of Agios Nicolaos. The big summer feast on Agios Panteleimonas Day takes place in this area.

Water tanks, a tiled ditch and the remains of an old olive mill complete the image of the surrounding area, which is protected by the Ministry of Culture. We shouldn’t omit to mention the stone lane that starts from Exohori, through Kentro and Sotirianika up to Kalamata. It is in a very good condition, whereas with some improvements it will become a significant monument of art and culture.

Kapetanakis tower is imposing.

A little further down, the church of Agia kyriaki was erected at the first years of Christianity in Mani. It is preserved and renovated according to the characteristics of that era. Zoodohos Pigi church at the centre of the village was renovated recently. At the churchyard, there is the cemetery, which will be transferred to a different place.

Transportation-Country roads

Transportation to and from Kalamata is done by KTEΛ buses. The country roads cover the 90% of the cultivated areas and are rather satisfactory. A big part is asphalted as, due to the steep incline of the ground, the rains have caused corrosions.

Water system

The area is watered by the springs at MC Kentro and in summer there is extra water coming from MC Altomira in order to cover the increased needs.

Agricultural Cooperative 

The Cooperative factory produces olive oil and consists of 100-110 farmers. It is a viable and profitable business.

Georgios Kouris, who is a retired teacher and ex president (1990-1994), is very active regarding the social issues of the village. He has important experience in issues of the local self-government and finds and promotes solutions for everyday life.

We would like to thank him for the tour to the Municipal Compartment of Sotirianika.

Ant. Roumaneas

The name Small Mantinia appeared for the first time after 1700. Where from do the inhabitants come? There are many points of view. One claims that they came from Big Mantinia, another that they were the men of Liberakis Gerakaris who came from Mesa Mani and a last one that they originate from generations that got equal parts of land in that area.

The last version is also sustained by the local tradition, which says that during the Venetian Empire, after an earthquake, Small Mantinia was dwelled by the residents of Marvinitsa (Sotirianika). “Mantinia of 1700…”by Theodoros Belitsos.

Today, it belongs to the Municipality of Kalamata. Yet, it is still part of the broad area of Mani. It is within a distance of 7 km from Kalamata, whereas the population is 687 people (census of 2001) contrary to the census of 1991, 606 people and the census of 1928, 177 people and it is still growing since many people from Kalamata choose to live there permanently.  Most of the people are dealing with tourist businesses (accommodation, tavernas, etc), while others continue the agricultural tradition. Many tourists from all over Europe, as well as Greeks come here for their summer holidays. In Mili there is the tower of Kapetanakis family, which takes the visitor to the past, eventhough it needs immediate repair. The church of Agios Nikolaos, in the center of the village, is still erect, in spite of the big earthquake in 1944 that was devastating for the area. There is also the church of Prophet Ilias and the tourist kiosk, which are places of religious worship and social events. The vastness of the blue sea with the pebbles attracts many visitors, whereas the olive trees and the bushes embellish the stony areas between the mountain and the sea.

Small Mantinia lies on the foot of mountain Kalathio (Borolva) on a sloping point and is connected by road to Kalamata and the Municipality of Avia. The delay to the delimitation of the gorges resulted in the delay of new constructions. Now, it is coming to the end as within a few days the project will be presented to the Department of Town-planning, then to the Municipality of Kalamata and last to the office departments of the Peripheral Peloponnese, in order to be approved. The road towards the rest of Mani has not finished yet. The project for biological cleaning to protect the shores from sewage as well as the protection of the coast from the dangerous weather phenomena in winter are still under discussion.

Small Mantinia is developing very fast, especially, during the last decade.

The respect to the environment should become the main concern. Only in this way will the place with the beautiful beaches and the deep blue sea remain an attracting pole for thousands of tourists.

Ant.Roumaneas

Pigadia expands in eleven villages Pigadia (the central village), Kokkinochoma, Zeka, Dendra, Krya Vrisi, Rizana, Kefalovriso, Ridomo, Velitsi, Kafea and Klima. It is the most mountainous village of Exo Mani built 900 meters above sea level. The distance from Kalamata is thirty kilometers. The distances among the villages are not very long, one or two kilometers. Several stone paths cross all the mountainous area connecting the villages in order to cover the social and financial needs. In the era of Byzantium and the Turkish Empire until the Second World War the area greatly flourished. Since 1950, the inhabitants were moving close to the sea in search of better luck. Today, many of the villages are deserted and only during summer do people move back. They take their cattle up to the summer grasslands. Cattle’s breeding is one of their main activities. Nowadays, a lot of deserted houses are being preserved and renovated to serve as summer residencies. Despite the abandonment, there are still several cultural elements, which depict the simple but imposing features of the architecture in Mani. Several stone constructions threshing floors, cabins, water mills, stone refuges in the entrances of the caves are the remnants of a glorious past. Some of the villages do not even have electricity: they recently installed the electricity supply to Krya Vrisi and Rizana.

According to tradition, Pigadia was created by a fugitive who left from Pede Pigadia in Epirus and dwelled in the area. According to another version, the name Pigadia comes from the fountains of the area. The residents of Pigadia organize every year many folklore feasts, the most important being the one in the central square on the 1^st Sunday of September.

In the past, there were more than 2000 residents; today, there are no permanent inhabitants any more.

Ridomo lies in the west part of Taygetus and crosses Sotirianika, Altomira, Pigadia, Kedro, Kabo, Megali Madinia and Ridomo village.

It starts from the foot of the highest peak of the mountain, which is Prophet Ilias. It is 2407 m high and flows to the Messinian bay in Santava.

The gorge is rich in geomorphologic elements. Along the gorge, there are several geologic formations, which were created by changes in the earth crust and the effect of water on limestones, which is the basic stone in the gorge. The horizontal slopes, the intense folds of the rock, the breaches, the gaps and the colorful rocks create a relief, which provoke intense emotions to the visitor. In certain parts, the two sides become too narrow, only 2 m long, whereas the height almost 200 m from the earth level. The flora of the gorge consists of bushes, evergreen deciduous plants, mixed forests of fir-trees and black pine trees, especially near Koskaraga and Toubia.

The combination of the natural relief and vegetation create a unique environment for the fauna of the area. The fact that many parts of the gorge remain intact from human activity is an advantage for the survival of the animals, which have increased considerably in quantity and quality.

Although this area does not seem to be very hospitable, it has been inhabited since the ancient years and developed both socially and economically.

In ancient times, the gorge was the border of Messinia and Laconia. It was also the only passage from the highest peak of Taygetus to Laconia. Three arched bridges are connected by the paths on both sides of the gorge. The one is in Koskaraka, right under the old bridge on the road to Kalamata-Kardamyli; the second is in Touba connecting the path from Sotirianika to Kabos and the third one, the so called “Pigadiotiko”, which is constructed on the narrowest part of the gorge and starts from the square in Pigadia up to Mili is the village Vorio Kedro. The several cultural features in combination to the wild natural environment have as an effect the increase of visitors, mainly mountain climbers and hikers, who either cross the gorge or go through the paths to admire the impressive landscape.

Ideal place of vacation for the insider

Summer1984. We are on holiday in Antiparos with some friends. There we meet another company who had their tents next to ours. We were chatting about other places we had visited and made comparisons. While I was indifferently listening to the various experiences of the others, suddenly a girl said nostalgically:

“The most beautiful place I’ve been on vacation is a small village by the sea in Mani.”

“Naturally, I got curious and asked her” “Sorry, which is this?”

“It’s a seaside village near Kalamata. You wouldn’t know it. It’s called Koukkino.”

“I was stunned! In the heart of the Aegean, in one of the most beautiful islands, a girl was contemplating over the small village of my grandfather on my mother’s side. She was recollecting all I had experienced as a child, the picturesque houses, the unique sunsets, and the tranquil evenings when the locals were sitting outside their houses narrating stories and remembering their deceased co villagers. They were talking about fishing, the sea and other everyday matters”

It is my intention to talk about this picturesque and insignificant village.

The name

There are no specific neither written nor oral proofs for the origin of the name of the place.  We can only make hypotheses. In Greek, the ending –inos is used for the formation of adjectives that refer to materials (e.g. petrinos =stony, ksilinos=wooden, chalkinos=copper), or to colours (e.g. kitrinos=yellow, prasinos = green, kokkinos=red). Consequently, we can make two assumptions.

1. The name comes from the stem koukk- of the word koukki that means seed of vetch, lentil, pea, etc. In certain places in Mani, they called koukkino flour and koukkino bread the flour and bread made of vetch. So, maybe the place was called Koukkinos because the ground reminded of koukkino flour or because they cultivated vetch. This is the most probable explanation.
2. The name Koukkinos could mean “kokkinos topos” = red place. The reason is that the ground is red. The second hypothesis is not so probable, although it is not impossible. They used to call places with red ground kokkinogia and not koukkina.

The place

Koukkinos is so small that it has never been a separate community, not even a separate village. It consists of a few families that live along the seashore. It belonged to Avia, which is now a Municipality and it was always connected to the neighbouring village Archontiko, which according to Socratis Kougheas took its name from the noble house of Paleolologos’ family of Mystras.

Since 1960, Archontiko has been connected to Paliochora.

It is created, on the one hand, from the erosion of the two hills of “Ai Jiorgis” and “Kotroni” or “Spanea Stefani” and, on the other, from the materials of a small gorge that flows into the sea across the properties of Nikos and Christos Baketeas.

The central part is where the villagers kept the orchards, the wells, and the gardens; it is extended to the public road. The ground on the other side of the road is more stable and older.

Most of the houses are built along the coast, which is accessible from two parts of the public road. The main access was through a narrow lane, which led to a down hill path. In former times, when it was raining a lot the waters swept along red mud that covered the house terraces before they reached the sea.

Before the war, the bay of Koukkinos was accessible also from Archontiko, which was a path along the coast; this explains also the connection of “Koukkinos-Archontiko”. It’s been now many years since the sea covered this area and one cannot pass without getting wet.

In the past, all transportation was done via donkeys or on foot. The road that connected Koukkinos to Kalamata was opened on the existing road in 1938.

The people

We don’t know exactly when Koukkinos was first inhabited, taking into consideration the composition of the soil. The existence of a premedieval community is unlikely, since during winter, the biggest part of the community would turn into marsh. There must have been either temporary or permanent constructions on the foothills, which are rocky with hidden caves useful for the animals. Old wells prove the presence of man.

The name “Archontiko” denotes the existence of a noble residence in the past.

During the Turkish Empire, the area of Koukkinos was not inhabited. In the middle of the 17^th Cent, Kato Chora of Mantinia was abandoned and became “Paliochora” Until the Revolution, all the coastal area between Kalamata and Kitries was isolated.

The first written document for human presence in Koukkinos is FEK 1841, where it is written that in 1840-41 the tax inspector of Laconic products had his headquarters in Archontiko.

In 19^th Cent, the gradual obliteration of piracy as well as the need for commercial communication with Kalamata via the sea gave the opportunity to many residents of Megali Mantinia to dwell near the coasts. Koukkinos had all the advantages for the creation of a new village.

First of all, it was on the way of one of the main roads from Kalamata to the southern villages.

It lies on the recess of a closed bay, which is protected from the capetown of Ai Jiorgis against the southern winds that cause severe winter storms.

In the central area, there are wells with drinking water for orchards and gardens. There were also olive and fig groves.

Consequently, it attracted many inhabitants.

In 1875, Konstantinos Baketeas (1842-1920) from Kabos dwelled in Koukkinos when he married Afroditi Fragouli. It is probable that a big part of koukkinos belonged to Fragoulis family and later to the granddaughter, Afroditi.

In 1890, the residence of Potis Fragoulis was built, which was later divided in two parts. The northern part belonged to the son Chritsos and now to his daughter Amalia, whereas the southern belonged to Vgenia Chandrinou (1898-1998) and now to her son Christos.

In 1900, Theodoros Baketeas’ house was built, which now belongs to his son Jiorgis, the oldest of Koukkinos villagers.

At that period, the house of Alexandros Mandrapilias was built, which was transformed to an olive mill. In 1910, he sold it and moved to Archontiko where he built again a house-olive mill.

Another house on an uphill path belonged to Loukas Konstantakis from Spetses. He was a fisherman, but he dwelled in the area when he married Efpraxia Kolokotroni.

The house of Dimitrios Zografos is also one of the houses in Koukkinos. He was a captain who came from Koroni. He moved in Koukkinos in the beginning of 20^th cent after he got married to Vaso Manea. His house was a small fig cabin, which belongs to Panagiotis Kakouros.

The last of the pre war constructions is the house of Jeorgantas Baketeas, which was built on the southern part of the coast. On the ground floor, there was the kafenio of the village. Barba Jeorgantas was a distinctive figure of the village. Patrons of the café were people going from Kalamata to the other villages. He was waiting for them and inviting them for food and wine.

Near the kafenio, he had built houses where they spent the night. Later, his son made them tourist appartments. The was the shoe maker, barba Jiannis and the butcher Th. Belitsos.

This is a brief report of the village in the pre war period until the beginning of the 60s. It consisted of 7-8 houses, dwelled by 7-8 families that had 4-5 children each approximately. The population of the village at that time was 45 people. They were half of the 93 people of the population of Archontiko in the census of 1928. They were mainly occupied with the cultivation of figs and olives and fishing. The women worked to complement the family income. In the kafenio many people were accommodated.

The image is completed by the small church of Ai Jiorgi to which we shall refer further down.

Ai Jiorgis ton Baketeon

On the southern side of the village on a small hill lies the church of Ai Jiorgis ton Baketeon, as it is called since it belonged to Baketeas family.

We don’t know exactly when it was erected. A story narrates that the church was built by a sailor as a vow. However, we believe that it is connected to the dwelling of koukkinos. It can’t be built before 1875; otherwise it would have been mentioned by travellers.

When it was first built, it was smaller. There was room just for 4-5 people. That’s why it was extended in 1935. The villagers from Koukkinos and Paleochora gave money for its renovation.

In the celebration of Ai Jiorgi, the villagers make a feast; they dance and bake until late in the afternoon. Apart from the locals many people from kalamata come, too. Usually, the arrow shooters join, too. They light the famous arrows (saites), which later became a custom in Kalamata.

They often had animals, which were devoted to the saint, mainly sheep, which were put up for auction or lottery, whereas the money earned were used for the church.

Many Koukkiniotes and Paleochorites chose Ai jiorgi for the christening of their children.

During the Occupation, Ai Jiorgis was connected to a dramatic event of the civil war amongst the various groups of resistance, that became known to the local history as the “Battle of Paleochora” (Machi tis Paleochoras).

In October 1943, a group of partisans found refuge to Paleochora chased by EΛAΣ (Greek Liberation Army). They barricated in various spots, amongst them the church of Ai Jiorgi. There, Bitsanis was killed and buried in the southern part of the church.

The muse wrote verses for this injustice and fratricide. The first two are the following:

At six o’clock Bitsanis was killed

His gun was taken by his comrade Jiannis…

After the Occupation, the celebration of Ai Jiorgi ceased to have festivious atmosphere. In the last 5-6 years they are starting to bring food, wine and sweets.

In 2001, in the NW side of the church, they built a small bell tower.

Apart from this, they still make marriages and christenings in the church.

Especially, in summer the bell of the church is heard very often.

The internal part is painted by the painter Lazaridis. The temple is decorated by three old icons, which are the following:

Jesus Crist, Holy mother, Aghios Ioannis.

They are works of art of the hagiographic house of Kirilos Ieromonachos Nea Skiti Aghio Oros.

Place for vacation

Since the end of 60s the village started to change. The fig cultivation was abandoned, whereas the locals occupied themselves primarily with the cultivation of olives and secondly with other professions.

Koukkinos is becoming famous for vacation. Already in Paleochora, Kalamatiani were renting houses for the summer vacations. This also started in Koukkinos since the 70s, when visitors from Megalopoli were coming to spend their holiday there.

The houses along the seashore were the ideal refuge for families of the city that were looking for a quiet and safe place for their children.

The sandy and shallow bottom of the sea made it also popular to the children for sea games. So, in summers the small port of Koukkinos was full of life.

Gradually, many rooms and houses to rent made their appearance, whereas the old orchards became plots for sale. New residencies were built from locals and foreigners, new people moved to the area either permanently or periodically.

Today, Koukkinos is a densely populated village, but it is still picturesque. The stony houses of the beach are preserved and dwelled by permanent residents. They embellish the picture of the village, whereas in the background it is the dominating stony church of Aghios Jeorgios.

Th. Belitsos