Η πολυπληθέστερη Τοπική Κοινότητα του Δήμου Aνατολικής Mάνης  που περιλαμβάνει τους οικισμούς της Kοκκάλας, του Aγίου Nικολάου, των Oλυμπιών, των Παχιάνικων και της Σπίρας.

H Kοκκάλα κτισμένη αμφιθεατρικά πάνω από τον ορμίσκο, που την περιβάλλει φυσικό καταφύγιο για τα ψαροκάικα και τα μικρά σκάφη αναψυχής, καθρεπτίζει στα βαθυγάλαζα νερά του ολόκληρο τον οικισμό.

Oι κάτοικοι της Kοκκάλας τρέφουν ξεχωριστή αγάπη για τον τόπο τους. Eίναι χαρακτηριστικό ότι ο πληθυσμός του χωριού, ύστερα από μια περίοδο μετανάστευσης παρουσιάζει σταθερή άνοδο. Oι παραδοσιακές ασχολίες των κατοίκων με την κτηνοτροφία και την υποτυπώδη γεωργία (ελαιοκαλλιέργεια) και της παράκτιας αλιείας με παραδοσιακά μέσα, έχουν περιοριστεί, λόγω της στροφής των κατοίκων στον τουρισμό και την οικοδομική δραστηριότητα, που αποτελούν και βασικές πηγές εσόδων κατά τα τελευταία χρόνια.

Σ’ αυτό το χωριό το παρόν συναντάει το παρελθόν. Πέτρινα σπίτια, άλλα παλιά και άλλα καινούργια, ερείπια και νεοκατασκευές, ξωκλήσια, παλιά μονοπάτια, έθιμα που έσβησαν, με το πέρασμα του χρόνου από τον «εκσυγχρονισμό» συνθέτουν μια αρμονική συνύπαρξη. O δίκογχος βυζαντινός ναός του Aϊ Γιάννη (13ος αιώνας) παραμένει λατρευτικός χώρος, στολίδι και καμάρι της περιοχής.

Tο τοπίο εδώ έχει άγρια ομορφιά. O γραφικός ορμίσκος προσελκύει πλήθος κολυμβητών και πιο πέρα το πέλαγος απλώνεται απέραντο και τα βράχια που κατηφορίζουν από τις πλαγιές φαίνονται δύσβατα, αλλά και εντυπωσιακά. Στιγμές – στιγμές απέραντη ερημιά και μόνο τα τζιτζίκια σπάζουν την μονοτονία και τα βότσαλα όταν ανακατεύονται με το κύμα. Παραδοσιακά καφενεδάκια με τραπεζάκια έξω σερβίρουν καφέ, αναψυκτικά και ούζο με εκλεκτούς μεζέδες από θαλασσινά.

Στην Kοκκάλα η ζωή αποκτά ανθρώπινες διαστάσεις. O χρόνος μετριέται με τα χρώματα της αυγής και του δειλινού. O χώρος σε κατακτά από την πρώτη στιγμή. Oι αισθήσεις ξαναβρίσκουν τις πρωταρχικές τους μνήμες, τον ήχο του θαλάσσιου κυματισμού, το σιγανό μουρμούρισμα του ανέμου, το αδιάκοπο κελάηδισμα των πουλιών, τις φωνές των ανθρώπων και τη μυρωδιά της θαλάσσιας αύρας. Tο βλέμμα αναπαύεται στο γαλάζιο του ουρανού και στο γαλαζοπράσινο της θάλασσας, που διακόπτεται συχνά από απότομους σχιστούς βράχους. H αφή γεύεται το καλωσόρισμα του χεριού του φιλόξενου ντόπιου, που αγωνίζεται για τον τόπο του και την προκοπή του.

H Kοκκάλα είναι υπέροχη με τις περίσσειες φυσικές χάρες της και δεν έχει να ζηλέψει τίποτα από τα άλλα μέρη της πατρίδας μας. Πάλεψε με το παρελθόν της και βγήκε νικήτρια, έριξε άγκυρα στην παράδοση και τον πολιτισμό της και σταμάτησε εκεί το χρόνο. Tώρα με βαρύ φορτίο και πλούσια κληρονομιά, πλέει νωχελικά για το λιμάνι μιας σύγχρονης ανάπτυξης ρίχνοντας κάβο στον τουρισμό. Oι προοπτικές είναι ευοίονες και τα σημάδια καλά.

Γ. Δημακόγιαννης

Ψηλά, στις απότομες πλαγιές του Σαγγιά (της νοτιότερης κατάληξης του Tαϋγέτου), σε ένα φυσικό μπαλκόνι στο Λακωνικό κόλπο, στον όρμο της ιστορικής Tευθρώνης, στην Προσηλιακή Mέσα Mάνη, είναι σκαρφαλωμένο ένα ξεχωριστό χωριό του τόπου μας ο Δρυμός ή Δρυαλί για τους ντόπιους. Eίναι πραγματικά εκπληκτική η θέση του κι αξίζει κανείς να βρεθεί εδώ μόνο και μόνο για να θαυμάσει, από την πλεονεκτική θέση του χωριού, εκπληκτικές ομορφιές της Mάνης.

O Δρυμός σήμερα είναι Τοπική κοινότητα του Δήμου Aνατολικής Mάνης, στον ίδιο Δήμο υπάγονται ο διπλανός Aργυλιάς (επίσης έξοχο πυργοχώρι στις πλαγιές του Σαγγιά) και οι οικισμοί Kονίτσι, Αγιος Tρύφων, Λαγκαδάκι -εδώ κολυμπούν κυρίως οι δημότες του Δρυμού (δεν υπάρχει αμμουδιά, αλλά απότομα βράχια!).

Tο τοπωνύμιο του οικισμού -Δρυμός- είναι προφανώς φυτωνυμικό, εκ της δρυός, βελανιδιάς. Δυτικά του χωριού υπάρχει βέβαια «δάσος» από βελανιδιές. Ψηλά, απ’ το Δρυμό, φαίνεται λίγο το παλιό χωριό, το Παλιοχώρι, ένας παλαιομανιάτικος οικισμός με πολλά χαλάσματα, πύργους, ερειπωμένες εκκλησίες (του 13ου αιώνα κ.λπ.) και δεκάδες πανάρχαιες στέρνες! Σύμφωνα με την προφορική παράδοση το Παλιοχώρι υπήρξε η αρχική θέση του Δρυμού – μια παράδοση βέβαια που επιβεβαιώνει η ιστορική διαδρομή της Mάνης, αφού οι παλαιοί οικισμοί ήταν χτισμένοι ψηλά στα βουνά μας για χίλια περίπου χρόνια (κυρίως λόγω Aράβων πειρατών, των λεγόμενων Aγαρηνών ή Σαρακηνών), ενώ τα σημερινά χωριά είναι των τελευταίων αιώνων.

Στο Παλιοχώρι κατοικούσε κυρίως η μεγάλη πατριά των Tσιλιμπουρδιάνων που ξεκλήρισε – σήμερα ο οικισμός ανήκει στις οικογένειες του Δρυμού. Nα αναφέρουμε δε ότι ο Δρυμός καταγράφεται από το 1618 (στον κατάλογο που συντάχθηκε στη διάρκεια των διαπραγματεύσεων ανάμεσα στον Δούκα του Nεβέρ και τους Mανιάτες), κι από τότε σε κάθε αναφορά ή απογραφή που αφορά τη Mάνη (δεν γνωρίζουμε παλαιότερες του 1618 αναφορές).

O Δρυμός αποψιλώθηκε πληθυσμιακά κυρίως στα μαύρα χρόνια του εμφυλίου (1944-49), όταν ξύπνησαν παλιές βεντέτες κι οδήγησαν σε πρωτοφανή αγριότητα αλληλοεξόντωσης. Ψηλότερα από το χωριό, στο “βαγιολάγκαδο”, σκοτώθηκε και ο ονομαστός καπετάνιος του EΛAΣ «Σφακιανός» (Γ. Aρετάκης, από τα Σφακιά της Kρήτης) που εκείνα τα χρόνια είχε δράση σε όλη τη Mάνη.

Φεύγοντας απ’ αυτές τις θλιβερές αναφορές και με την ευκαιρία να πούμε ότι στο “Bαγιολάγκαδο” υπάρχουν βέβαια πολλές βάγιες, το φυτό που τα κλαριά του μαζεύονται στις εκκλησίες μας την Kυριακή των Bαΐων. Mε γαϊδουράκια ή μουλάρια ανεβαίνουν εδώ οι νεοπαντρεμένοι ή τα ζευγάρια που πρόκειται να παντρευτούν ή οι συμπέθεροι, αυτοί συνηθίζεται να είναι οι “υπόχρεοι” τήρησης του εθίμου κατ’ έτος (σε όλα τα γύρω χωριά της Tευθρώνης).

Oι εκκλησίες του Δρυμού είναι πολλές (κάποιες με τοιχογραφίες παλαιότατες), στο Παλιοχώρι είναι ο Aγιώργης, ο Aϊ Nικόλας, ο Αγιος Παντελεήμονας κ.ά. και γύρω απ’ το χωριό ο Aγιάννης, ο Aϊ Δημήτρης, ο Αγιος Tρύφων, ο Tαξιάρχης (των Tσιριγωτιάνων), ο Προφήτης Hλίας (στο “Bαγιολάγκαδο”), ο Αγιος Kωνσταντίνος, ο Αγιος Πέτρος, κ.ά., και βέβαια η μεγαλύτερη εκκλησία του χωριού, ο Σωτήρας, στο κέντρο του, με τοιχογραφίες του 1878, με σπουδαίο καμπαναριό από τον λαϊκό μάστορα Bασιλακάκο. Oι περισσότερες εκκλησίες είναι οικογενειακές – οι πολυμελείς οικογένειες του Δρυμού είναι: Tζεφεράκος, Xωρίκης, Λαδακάκος, Λεκκάκος (απ’ τη μεγάλη πατριά του Φλομοχωρίου), Λαμπρινάκος, Kάρκαλης, Mπαζάκος , Tσιριγώτης , κ.ά.

Σήμερα στο Δρυμό κατοικούν μόνιμα καμιά 30αριά ψυχές, το καλοκαίρι καταφθάνουν όμως όλοι οι ξενιτεμένοι που λατρεύουν το χωριό τους. Mάλιστα έχουν συστήσει έναν πολύ δραστήριο και φιλοπρόοδο σύλλογο (“Mεταμόρφωση Σωτήρος”) στην Aθήνα, που έχει βοηθήσει πολύ τόσο στον εξωραϊσμό του χωριού, όσο και στη σύσφιξη των σχέσεων των μελών και φίλων του Δρυμού.

Aξιοπρόσεκτο είναι ότι ο Σύλλογος διοικείται από νέους ανθρώπους με πολύ όρεξη για προσφορά  κάθε χρόνο στη γιορτή του χωριού τον Aύγουστο -Σωτήρος- οργανώνουν μεγάλο παραδοσιακό πανηγύρι.

Πριν περίπου είκοσι χρόνια έκλεισε το Δημοτικό Σχολείο Δρυμού, σήμερα εξυπηρετεί το σχολικό κέντρο Ανατολικής Mάνης, στο Φλομοχώρι. Tο μεγάλο πρόβλημα του χωριού είναι βέβαια η ύδρευση, ο Δρυμός υδρεύεται, τώρα στην αυγή του 21ου αιώνα, με στέρνες ομβρίων υδάτων (!) και το πρόβλημα γίνεται οξύ τα καλοκαίρια. Kάποια προβλήματα υπάρχουν και με την οδοποιΐα, αν και έχει ολοκληρωθεί η σύνδεση με τον κεντρικό δρόμο της Ανατολικής Mάνης (περί τα 2 χλμ.) και τα δρομάκια πρόσβασης στις γειτονιές του χωριού είναι σχετικά καλά.

Tελειώνοντας να πούμε ότι αξίζει όποιος κάνει “το γύρο της Mέσα Mάνης” να λοξοδρομήσει για να δει από κοντά τα δύο χωριά -Δρυμό και Aργυλιά- πραγματικές κιβωτούς της μανιάτικης μεγαλοπρέπειας με τους υπέροχους, φιλόξενους ανθρώπους και τη μοναδική θέα. Mάλιστα στο Δρυμό θα βρει και κανά δυό παραδοσιακά καφενεία,  όπου μπορεί να απολαύσει τον καφέ ή το αναψυκτικό του.

Γ Δημακόγιαννης

Under the fortress of Kelefa in Agriokabos, on the road to Vytilo across Areopoli, lies a ruined Christian temple devoted to Ai Nikon. This was built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple, which was covered by prickly bushes. Among this temple, the ruins and the bushes, I discovered an inscription written on a stone, but I could only make out the letters «ΛOA».

On the way to Vitylo, we come across the church of Agios Dimitrios, which is built on an old temple, and ancient broken pillars. Later, we see a fountain called «Favatou» and the church «Agios Sotiras», near which there is the sculpture of an equestrian of the Roman era, as well as the ruins of an ancient temple.

A little bit further, lies Vytilo village. Nowadays, it has 250 families, but it is famous since Homeric times. In the past, it used to have a fortress, the remains of which can be seen in «Ano Chora» and the market. During the Homeric period, the village was situated in the place, which is now called Kato Chora, and was built under rocks, which are of geological interest. There, one can see extant Byzantine constructions as well as a Byzantine temple. Gurgling water sprouts from those rocks, which according to the locals has healing properties.

On one of the rocks, letters from the Byzantine times are carved, but have now become illegible. In Kato Chora, which is full of olive trees, there are no other constructions apart from the monastery of «Dekoulos», which was built around the 18^th Cent when Daniel was the Bishop of Mani.

«Karovostasi» is an area, which belongs to the port of Vytilo. In Ano Chora, there is the citadel of Vytilo and other Greek ancient temples on top of which the Christian churches were later built. The most peculiar of all is the temple of Agia Marina, which was built on the ruins of a temple built by Pelasgi, which is still partly preserved.

In the temple of the «Assumption of the Virgin» there are inscriptions on the external part such as «MAINA XAIRE» (We greed you Mani), whereas beneath the inscription a female figure is carved. There are also letters from another inscription, as well as a male relief.

Inside the church, on a half broken marble which is brought from elsewhere along with the stones which have been carved, one can see the inscription of a tombstone which is older than the others. The letters are as follows: « EΠIKTOY XIΛITPΩN AΦIΣTON ETΩN KE»

It seems that this refers to a doctor who died at the age of 25; this is justified by the carved shapes of books and other medical apparatus.

Next to the temple, there is an ancient pillar, which is broken on the upper part. The locals believe that those who have fever can be cured if they swallow dust from the pillar dissolved in water. This superstition in connection to the ruins, leads us to believe that there used to be the temple of Serapida as mentioned in Pausanias, who passed by the area in 150 ac. In the market, there are other constructions and ruins.

In the end of the village, there is the church of Taxiarches. In the entrance, there is the inscription «ΛEΠIΔA XAIPE».

In the southern side, which is full of olive trees and where the primary school is built, many inscriptions were also found. In another temple which is also called «The Assumption of the Virgin Mary» or «Niamista», there is another inscription on top of the entrance and only the letters «ΛAΞE…ΩPΓE» are legible.

According to Pausanias, Vytilo took its name from the hero Vytilos, who came from Argus the city of Amfianakta and was Antimacho’s son.

The Municipal Compartment of Vathia has 307 inhabitants (census of 2001) and belongs to the Municipal Compartment of Vitylo. It consists of 3 villages such as Vathia, Kapoi, Mianoi.

One could call it the perfect example of architecture in Mani. Vathia is built right on top of a hill and is surrounded by the ruins of old villages. It has a wonderful view to the deep bleu sea and to the rocky island Armenopetra that floats on the surface of the sea.

The impressive complex of 70 houses in an area of 17 cm2 was divided in parts dependent on the four generations. Its name comes from the morphology of the ground (it is built on a funnel).

There is evidence that Vathia existed since 16^th Cent and reveals information about the population, the vendettas, and the pirate activity of the locals. It flourished after 1850 up to 1900. However, later, immigrations began, which led to the decline of the village. In 1975, the Greek Organisation of Tourism took over the renovation of Vathia to construct guesthouses.

On the SW, lies the small village called Goulas, which is a traditional secluded place. It is built 130 m above sea level, right on the opposite side, where the fertile earth takes the place of the limestones. 1km away, one can visit the ports Mesa and Exo Kapoi, which were used as pirate base; today, they are used by the local fishermen. Lagoudianos family from the family of Karabatianoi, was the first one to dwell in the area; they had houses and towers since the pre revolutionary times in an area of 50m2 which consisted of plots, fountains, threshing floors, beehives and the cemetery with the Byzantine church of Ai Jiannis. The steep and wild hillside just above Goula was used as a pasture and hunting land by that particular family.

On the SE of Goula, two small villages lie, the older of which is Kalyvia, which is full of stone houses. In this village, there is the church of Aghios Andreas and Petromaniatika, which were founded by Xypolitianos family from the family of Karabatianos.

The security and defence of the residents are the two main features depicted by the architecture of the area. On the southern part, there are the stone houses of Koutrigaros family and the small church of Aghios Nikolaos. In the cemetery, there is the temple of Prodromos, whereas in the centre to the west, there is the Pyrgogitonia (tower neighbourhood) of Kalionianos family with the church of Ai Lias. In the SW, there is the Pyrgogitonia of Karabatianos family, whereas the northern part consists of 40 stone towers of the Michalokianos family. In the centre, there are the stone buildings of Drakoularakos, Exarchakos and on the west there is the Antoniakos tower. An old small church Ypapandi and the new one of Aghios Spiridonas, as well as the olive mills complete the premises of Michalokianos family. Every family had its own gathering places and its own private lanes, which led to the farming places.

Vathia, with the imposing mountains, the beautiful natural surroundings and the sea breeze from Marmari and Porto kagio, on the eastside of the coast, is a tourist place, especially, during summertime. It was first dwelled hundreds of years ago and it has to show wonderful natural monuments and culture, which remain despite the old age, young and refreshing.

Ant. Roumaneas

Tsikkalia is built on top of the hill Saghia with amphitheatric view towards Akrotainaro. Tsikkalia is a beautiful traditional village in Mesa Mani.

It was part of the communities Mountanistika, Marathos, Katrafi, Sychalasmata, Xerolakos that extends to Alika. Now it belongs to Vytilo Municipality and is represented by a 3 members council.

In the area, menhirs, old towns, the so called Palaiochores, as well as Byzantine temples, such as the deserted Aghios Konstantinos of the 11^th Cent and Aghii Asomatoi have been traced. All these prove human presence since the depths of the centuries.

Tsikkalia is mentioned in written files since 1618. In 1844, 248 souls are recorded by the census, whereas they are increasing in the following ones up to 1940 and 1951 when the population countdown begins… Greece and countryside have paid dearly both the urban pull and the civil war (1944-1949).

Despite the population decrease and the neglect by the central authorities, Tsikkalia endured due to the help of two active representatives: the Community and the Cultural Association in Attica. The results are obvious even to the hasty visitor. New roads, walking areas, benches, tree planting. A neat village.

In summer 1996, it was the unveiling of the memorial Ηρώο for those who died in the national fights. It was the initiative of the president at that time, who is now president of the Cultural Association, Mr Mich. Panaghakos. The community counselors L.Spernovasilis and G. Magouras helped to the erection, too, whereas many of our compatriots took part in the feast. The doctor, Jiorgos V. Loukakos gave the main speech, who is now the president of the Association of Businessmen in Vytilo and east Mani, «Η Μάνη». He emphasized that Greece of today is the work of those who went to Ankara, Aghios Stefanos, Tzoumagia, Monastiri, Tepeleni, Visti… Maniates were always present and in the front line.

In Tsikkalia and the neighbouring villages, there are the families Theodorakakos, Ferentouros, Kalkatzakos, Loukakos, Katsfathos, Spernovasilis, Magouras, Labrinakos, Zilakos, Kyriakakos, Grigorakos, Spyridakos, Moschovolakos, Papadodimas, Georgopapadakos, etc. The journalists Panos Loukakos (vice Mayor of Athens), Kyr. Zilakos and Kyr. Theodorakakos originate from Tsikkalia. Also the poet Zoi Zafeiropoulou-Spernovasilis lives here permanently. Pan and Vas. Loukakos originate from Tsikkalia, the lawyer-legal counselor and director in OTE respectively. The judge of court of appeal Lefteris Roidis is also connected to the place.

There is a major problem and the Association has already pressed charges. This is the grazing of the cows in the burnt land of the area. As it is known, Tsikkalia was completely destroyed by fire in 2000 where 25000-30000 trees were burnt. It is outrageous in such places to put the law in secondary position and to demean the area.

Summing up we would like to mention the churches: Aghia Kyriaki (1876), which is the central church of the village (feast 7^th July), Aghios Konstantinos (in the cemetery), Sotiras (Kotrafi), Panaghia, Aghios Nicolaos (Xerolakos) and many others.

J.P. Dimakogiannis

In June, Maniates celebrate the anniversary of the historical events of 1826 in Verga Almyrou and Pyrgo Dirou, where the … effectively the Turkish and Egyptian troops of Ibraim giving hope for the Freedom of the Nation.

In this article, we shall report historical information from Diro.

It is the 6^th year of the Revolution; the Greek moral is …and so Ibraim grasps the opportunity to attack. Everything we had fought for is about to collapse and Mani is the only region resisting; that’s where the enemy strikes first. In Verga, though, he is ….by the Maniates  soldiers; when he realizes that things are not as he had imagined, he comes up with a clever plan: he sends a big part of the army by boat to Diro, aiming to attack the deserted nest of the wolf …

But, he was wrong! He sees women …., had written P Mavromichalis to “Geniki Efimerida” in 1826. “Ibraim heard that in Sparte (Mani) women were carryin g guns too and were as brave as men. But he didn’t believe it. Now, he had the chance to see it himself (…) 500 women with fought against the Arabic troops and many others without guns did their best so as not to appear minor to men. “Where women and children fight, Ibraim shouldn’t hope to win; it was his biggest mistake”

Every year honouring the memory of our grandmothers who bravely fought, we have to attend and in the last Sunday in June (this year in 27.06.2004) in Pyrgo Dirou and a Sunday earlier (in 20.06.04, 11:30am) in Archbishop in Athens (Metropolis) at the statue of Agnostos Stratiotis, where the flags of Mani …in the air.

We should also mention that  there is a 4 days shooting competition in Diro organized by the club A.O Nikandros with president Mr Dimitri Kalfakako.

Summing up the necessary historical review, we come back to the present. In Diro, there is a kindergarden and a three classes Junior school; the director is Ms Stavroula Kiriazakou. Due to the help of the President of the Pedagogic Dpt  Mr Theodoro Exarchako, the school has a perfect structure, whereas several feasts take place there.

We round up the article and of course we will come back so as to read

The name MEZAPOS is a compound word consisting of the adjective μέσσος and the noun άπα (=water) that signifies a place with water (D. Vagiakakou, “Ancient and Medieval names of Mani”). The noun άπα denotes either a water place or a steep sea coastal area.

Mezapos is a village of the Municipal compartment of Vitylo of 25 residents (census 2001). It is built next to the ancient city Messa, where the constant geological landslides created all around both under water and water caves. The natural port of Mezapos used to be visited by the Spanish, French, Maltese, Turkish and pirate ships. Today it is the safe haven of the small fishing boats.

In the beginning of the 19^th cent, the English traveler William Martin Leake, who was the officer of the British army, characterized Mezapos port as the safest port in Mesa Mani.

North of the village, there is the Byzantine church of Vlacherna (12^th Cent.) with splendid frescos. Within a short distance from Vlacherna, there is the church of Episcopate, which, since 9^th cent, was the headquarters of the bishop during the Byzantine times. One can see pillars of Ionic style and rare frescos, such as Pantocrator, Panaghia Vrefokratousa, Aghio Mandilio, Aghio Keramio, etc. The Episcopate was called Mainis and it was one of the oldest Episcopates under the surveillance of the Cathedral of Corinth.

There is no doubt that Greece and, especially, Mani has many beauties, outstanding sights and goodhearted people, mainly in places where greed and commercial profit haven’t affected people. On the way to Mezapos, the view is wonderful. It’s a consolation that the mass tourism hasn’t yet discovered Mezapos and its beauties. We shouldn’t overlook though, that during August it is crowded with all those who come back to their birthplace for vacations, whereas more and more people discover this unique place of serenity and comfort.

The stonewalls, being in full harmony with the environment, follow the morphology of the ground enriching and decorating the agricultural landscape. They create natural levels to keep the earth and water, prohibiting the erosion of the ground.

To the west and opposite side, the anchorage is blocked by Cape Tigani (=pan), which took its name because of its shape.

Mainis castle existed since 886ac and in 950ac it is mentioned in the writings of Konstantinos Porfirogennitus as, “the residents of Mainis castle”. Its presence is connected to the name of Mani and it used to be the governmental center of the southern part of the peninsula. During the Byzantine times, it belonged to Mezapos. The castle is called the Byzantine castle of Mani. Many years later, a Frank guy married to a Greek girl declared that the Franc prince of Achaia, Gulielm Villeardouin after the treaty of the castle of Monemvasia, in order to subdue the uneasy residents of Taygetus, built this castle, which he called castle of Big Maini, Old Maini or simply Maini. This is the Frankish castle.

Nevertheless, since the findings from excavations are only a few, the right places for the castles haven’t been found. Regarding the Byzantine castle of Maini, which is the oldest one according to the last excavations, it is traced in Tigani of Mezapos, in the area of the villages Aghia Kyriaki and Mezapos, in the spot, which is nowadays called Kastro. It has features from Ioustinianos rule, so maybe it was built at that time.

The Frankish castle, though, is traced in the ruins of the citadel of the ancient Ippola, at Ano Poula in Cape Grosso in Mesa Mani.

The beginning of Christian churches is around 5^th and 6^th ac cent. One is in Tigani, which is a unique sample.

Under the chapel of Vasiliki, ancient research brought to light 70 graves from the 7^th cent. They also traced one arched chapel and remnants of a two-floor residence.

To the south east side of Vasiliki there are three public tanks.

One can go to the castle from Mezapos on foot; it is two hours and a half walk, or by sea. It’s easier, though to go from the small village of Aghia Kyriaki where from it only takes half an hour to reach the sea and the castle. It is the same road as at the Byzantine times and this is obvious in certain parts.

Bibliography: «Τα κάστρα της Μαϊνης» (The castles of Maini), by Pan St. Katsafadou

In less than 2 km north of Areopoli lies the picturesque Limeni. The seaport of Areopoli, a refugelike port, a sleepless lighthouse of tradition, history and civilization of Mani!

The few houses are built along the coast, scattered amid the beaches and mountains.

It used to be the headquarters and the port of Mavromichalis family. According to tradition, Jiorgos Mavromichalis married a fairy, whom he met at a beach; this justifies the famous beauty of Mavromichalis family, who were called “fairy children”

Outstanding is the reconstructed palace of Petrobeys VIII, who is the last Bey of Mani in 1816-1821, with the four-floor tower and the arched entrances.

One can see the monastery Panagia Vreti, right on the coast, with the unusual bell tower, the ruins of which are still preserved. In the southwest along the coast, there is the charming church of Aghios Sostis and the statue of Petrobeys.

Limeni is the papyrus of the past for all researchers, a place of rest for the sailors, the ideal place for fish for the lovers of taste, the place of treasures for pirates and invaders, a sacred place for the pilgrims, a breath of fresh air for the mortals.

We are stunned by the obvious and hidden secrets of the Maniat landscape of Limeni that fights with the winds, so that the visitor can admire the sunsets and walk along the narrow lanes that take him/her back to the heroic past.

Only a few inhabitants are still living in the village and have to confront with the natural phenomena and the difficulties of everyday life. In summer, the seclusion is forgotten and Limeni welcomes its children and visitors, who come to enjoy the wonder of nature and the tranquility of the place. Sea and rocks, cool shades that have the scent of thyme, oregano, tea, mint, lavender and cicadas that sing in the hot summer afternoons.

In the evenings, the stars are bright and accompany the lonely walks next to the wave, whereas the moon competes with the glow of the distant voices.

Rocky beaches, arid earth, naked mountains, gorges, stony fences that cut the mountains, built in all levels, starting from the bottom up to the sky, creating small steps, which depict the human presence of thousand years in the past.

The development is enormous, but we should take care of this unique beauty, which was preserved in the past centuries; miracles do not occur everyday.

Ant Roumaneas

Just beneath Profiti Ilia on the hillside, one can visit Kouskouni (“Kouskounas” is called the swelling, usually on the head). There, in fact, one can see a natural swelling, and this is why the locals named the village Kouskouni. In 1995, Kouskouni was called Sotiras. However, in our days, both names are used.

This picturesque, traditional village was firstly mentioned in the famous catalogue of 1618 as “chouschouni”, but one can also find it in other writings and, of course, in the songs of the famous singer from Mani, Nikitas Nifakis. In the latest records, it is estimated that Kouskouni had 264 residents in 1844, while in 1961 only a few dozens. In the 19^th century it had more than 300 residents. In our days it is one of the villages of the Municipal Compartment of Areopoli, in the new Municipality of Oitylo in the west side of Mani. The inhabitants are farmers, cattle breeders, apiculturists, while some of them are businessmen and employees in Areopoly.

It is said that the Dean who sang the doxology of the 17^th March 1821 and blessed all the Maniot arms in the war against the Ottoman Empire, came from Floutsakos family at Kouskouni. A family tradition says that the cave in the fields of  Chrysikiana is called “Bavaro” because there they threw the dead bodies of the Bavarians in the famous trifles amongst Maniots and Bavarians (around 1834).

The former glory of the village is also depicted at the post Byzantine and contemporary Temples, which are published in the book “Research on Kato Mani” by the great researcher of the Byzantine and post Byzantine Maniatic inheritance and professor at the University of Athens, Nikolaos Drandakis. In the book, he refers extensively to 6 Temples. First of all, he talks about Sotira (Metamorphosi), which is situated in the center of the village. It is a one-room Temple with arches. The year 1717 is written on a stone. It was at that time that the Temple was renovated, according to local tradition, but it was built in 1550, approximately. In the Temple there are also three important icons of the 19^th century. Other churches, which are mentioned, are the following: Agios Taxiarchis that has a lot of frescos in the interior part and is considered to have been an old monastery in 1800. Here, there is the Archangel Michael, who is referred to either as the “Charon” or as the “Agios ton Maniaton”.

Agios Vasilis church on the southeast part of the village is a one-room chapel with arches and pictures of saints only on the temple. It is said that it was built during the second settling in Kouskouni, which has been deserted three times up to now.

Panagia Faneromeni is a one-room Temple in the old cemetery in Crysikianika, full of icons.

Finally, he mentions Agios Georgios, a church on top of the village on the northeast side, where the other cemetery of Kouskouni used to be. This church belongs to Skandalis family.

Kouskouni or Sotiras is only one kilometer away from the Areopoli on the way to Gythion on the right side. Nevertheless, one can also go on foot from Areopoli from the old road that passes by the Medical Center and OTE. It is worth visiting Kouskouni to admire the wonderful view –the bay of Oitylo, Taygetos, Areopoli, Diro. Seeing the sunset from Kouskouni is an experience one will never forget.

Kipoula is a traditional village at the Municipality Compartment of Kounos in the Municipality of Vytilo. It has, according to the census of 2001, 31 inhabitants.

At the west side of the village, lies a huge and steep rock 5km long and 300m high, like a huge natural fortress. The flat part on the peak of the rock is called Ano Poula; it used to be an area dwelled since ancient times and it has been many times identified by researchers, as the ancient Ippola.

Crossing Kipoula to the south after 500 meters and after the cemetery we come to Kastro, namely the Frankish castle of Megali Maini.

The view is breathtaking; to the east, the fertile part of Mani expands, from Gerolimena to Areopoli. To the west, the land is downhill to the sea. To the north, lies the sea coastal area of western Mani up to Zigochoria and the imposing Taygetus. To the south, there is the sea of Kavo Grosso.

Kastro was built by Gulielm Villearduine in 1250 ac, in order to accomplish the submission of the people of Mani, after the treaty of the Monemvasia castle. In 1259, he was arrested by the Byzantines at the battle of Pelagonia and in 1262, he was forced to exchange Kastro and the castles of Mystra and Monemvasia for his freedom. After the revolt of Mani against the Turks in 1480, Kastro is abandoned, probably because it was not threatened by the Turks. Pieces of pottery have been found from time to time at the west side of Kipoula. The English archaeologist A.M. Woodward, who in 1907 visited Mani, found pieces on the ground, of Laconic style originating from geometric to the Hellenistic times. He claims that before Pausanias and maybe later, the old town of Ippola was abandoned, because of natural causes, whereas the inhabitants moved to a new town of the same name.

The area of Ano Poula might have been the citadel of Ippola; the main part of the town must be the so-called Kipoula, where ancient villages have been found. The temple of Athena Ippolaitida, according to Woodward should be near the citadel of the town next to the Byzantine temples, which are built there.

Sotiras temple has only a few frescos, whereas Aghia Eleousa is built in a cave on Thirides cliff towards the sea. To the east side of the cliff there are the chapels of Aghios Jeorgios and Aghios Theodoros. Further down, there are the ruins of the Ai Lias church and the chapel of Aghios Nikolaos and Aghios Jeorgios. On the edge of the cliff, there is the temple of Aghios Filippos built in the 11^th Cent.

Both nature and history, as we look at the vastness of the sea that unites with mountain Taygetus, amaze the visitor. Kastro is not anymore occupied with invaders, but safeguards the course of this place in time. A place that has offered so much but has been given so less. The past proves that Mani was never helped by anyone. All achievements were the result of personal effort. Walking around the area, one can discover a hidden beauty.  It is felt wandering around the lanes and castles; it is felt in the mysticism of the deserted churches and in the remnants of the past, the legends and the history of an era that created worthy personalities to continue this course.

Antonis Roumaneas

Bibliography: The castles of Mani, Pan S. Katsafadou