In less than 2 km north of Areopoli lies the picturesque Limeni. The seaport of Areopoli, a refugelike port, a sleepless lighthouse of tradition, history and civilization of Mani!

The few houses are built along the coast, scattered amid the beaches and mountains.

It used to be the headquarters and the port of Mavromichalis family. According to tradition, Jiorgos Mavromichalis married a fairy, whom he met at a beach; this justifies the famous beauty of Mavromichalis family, who were called “fairy children”

Outstanding is the reconstructed palace of Petrobeys VIII, who is the last Bey of Mani in 1816-1821, with the four-floor tower and the arched entrances.

One can see the monastery Panagia Vreti, right on the coast, with the unusual bell tower, the ruins of which are still preserved. In the southwest along the coast, there is the charming church of Aghios Sostis and the statue of Petrobeys.

Limeni is the papyrus of the past for all researchers, a place of rest for the sailors, the ideal place for fish for the lovers of taste, the place of treasures for pirates and invaders, a sacred place for the pilgrims, a breath of fresh air for the mortals.

We are stunned by the obvious and hidden secrets of the Maniat landscape of Limeni that fights with the winds, so that the visitor can admire the sunsets and walk along the narrow lanes that take him/her back to the heroic past.

Only a few inhabitants are still living in the village and have to confront with the natural phenomena and the difficulties of everyday life. In summer, the seclusion is forgotten and Limeni welcomes its children and visitors, who come to enjoy the wonder of nature and the tranquility of the place. Sea and rocks, cool shades that have the scent of thyme, oregano, tea, mint, lavender and cicadas that sing in the hot summer afternoons.

In the evenings, the stars are bright and accompany the lonely walks next to the wave, whereas the moon competes with the glow of the distant voices.

Rocky beaches, arid earth, naked mountains, gorges, stony fences that cut the mountains, built in all levels, starting from the bottom up to the sky, creating small steps, which depict the human presence of thousand years in the past.

The development is enormous, but we should take care of this unique beauty, which was preserved in the past centuries; miracles do not occur everyday.

Ant Roumaneas

Just beneath Profiti Ilia on the hillside, one can visit Kouskouni (“Kouskounas” is called the swelling, usually on the head). There, in fact, one can see a natural swelling, and this is why the locals named the village Kouskouni. In 1995, Kouskouni was called Sotiras. However, in our days, both names are used.

This picturesque, traditional village was firstly mentioned in the famous catalogue of 1618 as “chouschouni”, but one can also find it in other writings and, of course, in the songs of the famous singer from Mani, Nikitas Nifakis. In the latest records, it is estimated that Kouskouni had 264 residents in 1844, while in 1961 only a few dozens. In the 19^th century it had more than 300 residents. In our days it is one of the villages of the Municipal Compartment of Areopoli, in the new Municipality of Oitylo in the west side of Mani. The inhabitants are farmers, cattle breeders, apiculturists, while some of them are businessmen and employees in Areopoly.

It is said that the Dean who sang the doxology of the 17^th March 1821 and blessed all the Maniot arms in the war against the Ottoman Empire, came from Floutsakos family at Kouskouni. A family tradition says that the cave in the fields of  Chrysikiana is called “Bavaro” because there they threw the dead bodies of the Bavarians in the famous trifles amongst Maniots and Bavarians (around 1834).

The former glory of the village is also depicted at the post Byzantine and contemporary Temples, which are published in the book “Research on Kato Mani” by the great researcher of the Byzantine and post Byzantine Maniatic inheritance and professor at the University of Athens, Nikolaos Drandakis. In the book, he refers extensively to 6 Temples. First of all, he talks about Sotira (Metamorphosi), which is situated in the center of the village. It is a one-room Temple with arches. The year 1717 is written on a stone. It was at that time that the Temple was renovated, according to local tradition, but it was built in 1550, approximately. In the Temple there are also three important icons of the 19^th century. Other churches, which are mentioned, are the following: Agios Taxiarchis that has a lot of frescos in the interior part and is considered to have been an old monastery in 1800. Here, there is the Archangel Michael, who is referred to either as the “Charon” or as the “Agios ton Maniaton”.

Agios Vasilis church on the southeast part of the village is a one-room chapel with arches and pictures of saints only on the temple. It is said that it was built during the second settling in Kouskouni, which has been deserted three times up to now.

Panagia Faneromeni is a one-room Temple in the old cemetery in Crysikianika, full of icons.

Finally, he mentions Agios Georgios, a church on top of the village on the northeast side, where the other cemetery of Kouskouni used to be. This church belongs to Skandalis family.

Kouskouni or Sotiras is only one kilometer away from the Areopoli on the way to Gythion on the right side. Nevertheless, one can also go on foot from Areopoli from the old road that passes by the Medical Center and OTE. It is worth visiting Kouskouni to admire the wonderful view –the bay of Oitylo, Taygetos, Areopoli, Diro. Seeing the sunset from Kouskouni is an experience one will never forget.

Kipoula is a traditional village at the Municipality Compartment of Kounos in the Municipality of Vytilo. It has, according to the census of 2001, 31 inhabitants.

At the west side of the village, lies a huge and steep rock 5km long and 300m high, like a huge natural fortress. The flat part on the peak of the rock is called Ano Poula; it used to be an area dwelled since ancient times and it has been many times identified by researchers, as the ancient Ippola.

Crossing Kipoula to the south after 500 meters and after the cemetery we come to Kastro, namely the Frankish castle of Megali Maini.

The view is breathtaking; to the east, the fertile part of Mani expands, from Gerolimena to Areopoli. To the west, the land is downhill to the sea. To the north, lies the sea coastal area of western Mani up to Zigochoria and the imposing Taygetus. To the south, there is the sea of Kavo Grosso.

Kastro was built by Gulielm Villearduine in 1250 ac, in order to accomplish the submission of the people of Mani, after the treaty of the Monemvasia castle. In 1259, he was arrested by the Byzantines at the battle of Pelagonia and in 1262, he was forced to exchange Kastro and the castles of Mystra and Monemvasia for his freedom. After the revolt of Mani against the Turks in 1480, Kastro is abandoned, probably because it was not threatened by the Turks. Pieces of pottery have been found from time to time at the west side of Kipoula. The English archaeologist A.M. Woodward, who in 1907 visited Mani, found pieces on the ground, of Laconic style originating from geometric to the Hellenistic times. He claims that before Pausanias and maybe later, the old town of Ippola was abandoned, because of natural causes, whereas the inhabitants moved to a new town of the same name.

The area of Ano Poula might have been the citadel of Ippola; the main part of the town must be the so-called Kipoula, where ancient villages have been found. The temple of Athena Ippolaitida, according to Woodward should be near the citadel of the town next to the Byzantine temples, which are built there.

Sotiras temple has only a few frescos, whereas Aghia Eleousa is built in a cave on Thirides cliff towards the sea. To the east side of the cliff there are the chapels of Aghios Jeorgios and Aghios Theodoros. Further down, there are the ruins of the Ai Lias church and the chapel of Aghios Nikolaos and Aghios Jeorgios. On the edge of the cliff, there is the temple of Aghios Filippos built in the 11^th Cent.

Both nature and history, as we look at the vastness of the sea that unites with mountain Taygetus, amaze the visitor. Kastro is not anymore occupied with invaders, but safeguards the course of this place in time. A place that has offered so much but has been given so less. The past proves that Mani was never helped by anyone. All achievements were the result of personal effort. Walking around the area, one can discover a hidden beauty.  It is felt wandering around the lanes and castles; it is felt in the mysticism of the deserted churches and in the remnants of the past, the legends and the history of an era that created worthy personalities to continue this course.

Antonis Roumaneas

Bibliography: The castles of Mani, Pan S. Katsafadou

It sits on the northern part of Vitylo bay and in the past it was called “Mikro Algeri”. It consists of 60 inhabitants (census 2001) and is part of the Municipal Compartment of Vitylo. The fact that many Ionic and Doric capitals have been found in the area and in the sea bottom proves that the place has been dwelled since the ancient times.

Karavostasi is a fast growing area, where the combination of sea and mountain attracts the visitor. Following the bypass on the road Kardamyli-Areopoli we arrive at the village surrounded by olive trees. The farming activities (farming, cattle breeding, fishing) have been till now the only occupation of the remaining locals, as many of them left for the big cities looking for employment. Many of them made headway and some of them returned to the village taking advantage of the attraction of the place to the tourists due to the geomorphologic characteristics. Luxury and simplicity. The smell of the sea sweeps along the scent of thyme, whereas, at the same time, the sea breeze gives a sense of refreshment in the summer heat.

Old houses, others preserved and others renovated as well as new ones have as basic characteristic the use of stone. The patios with stony floors and covered by vine trees become small oasis. Hotels, and apartments, taverns and places for entertainment are waiting for the visitors. Apart from the natural beauty, Karavostasi has the ideal climate, cool in summer, when the sea breeze refreshes the visitor and mild winter. Wandering around the village, one will, certainly, hear the sound of hammers or see all kinds of construction equipment. The beautiful beaches, the picturesque surrounding, the cool climate and the wonderful sunlight that embellishes the sweet memories give to the place an attractive air which is powerful for those living there or just visiting. Immigration played an important role and many houses lie there abandoned; nevertheless, the villagers had faith that their village has a prosperous future. This is guaranteed by their love, interest and passion for it.

Ant Roumaneas

Areopoli is the centre of the so-called Municipal Compartment and governmental centre of Vytilo. It has 988 residents and consists of the villages Drialia, Lagokilia, Limeni, Omala and Sotiras. It is built in the centre of the peninsula of Mani on the south part of the big gorge that divides mountain Taygetus in two; it sits in between Vytilo and Diro on the foothill of the mountain Prophet Elias on a rocky place with view to the west side to the Messinian bay.  It is in fact, the end of the main road to the South and South West part of Mani.

The Palaeolithic proofs in Apidima and Kalamakia, as well as the megalithic remnants in the west part and the interesting cemetery of Aghios Polikarpos show the long lasting course of the city.

In 1336, Tsimova, as it used to be called, was occupied by N Atzagioli.

In 1618, the village had 70 families and in 1700 it had 146 families (590 residents). Nik. Nifakis refers to them as merchants and pirates and as followers of love and freedom. This is depicted in the following verses:

“Tsimovites are the only good people. Their customs and good manners prove so. They are overtly merchants and secretly pirates. They can be ungrateful, inhuman, liars, cunning and flatterers. These characteristics are the result of disobedience that is the result of ignorance that is the result of discord and superstition. They believe they are free like their ancestors, which is a foolishness. This is the reason why they do not want to submit to others and they never agree with the great ones. When a foreigner wants to invade their country, then, they fight united for freedom.”

The town was named Areopoli after the liberation, in 1836. During the last three centuries, Areopoli became an important centre of commerce under the government of Mavromichalis family, who made important improvements to the village, such as churches and houses.

Taxiarches (1798) is the metropolis of Areopoli and sits in the historical 17^th March 1821 Square. It has an important sculptured temple and exquisite decoration with stones. The tower bell of the church was built later and became the distinguishing mark of the town. The small and simple churches, such as Aghia Triada (before 17^th Cent.), Aghia Kyriaki and Aghios Petros, on the west part, impress the visitors. Additionally, Aghios Ioannis Prodromos (beginning of 18^th Cent.) that has wonderful frescos, Panagia Jeorjianiki (middle of 18^th Cent.) and Aghios Nikolaos (1807) that has a twelve-sided dome and a wooden separated place for women. The double temple of Panaghia and Aghios Charalabos on Niarchakos’ square has frescos of 1869 and a tower bell and finally, Aghios Athanasios church on Athanatoi Square. These are only a few samples of the religious faith of Areopoli.

Eminent residencies that combine organisation with marvellousness take us back to the glorious past. The Complex with the built fence that belongs to Stylianos Mavromichalis, the three floor Kapetanakos tower that became (1976-79) a guest house by EOT, and the five floor Barelakos tower are monuments and have been characterised as the best buildings of architecture in Mani.

Areopoli took part in Orlofika (1770). Petrobey Mavromichalis was captain in Areopoli and then became Bey of Mani. He was the first colonel of the Greek troops during the revolution, president of the 3^rd Constitutional Assembly, counsellor and senator. His offer as well as the offer of his family takes the first place in the national conscience. Maniates started from the church Taxiarches at the 17 March 1821 Square for the liberation of Kalamata and Greece.

Nowadays, Areopoli has expanded to the east and developed to a significant commercial centre with active market, which is important for all Mani without losing its colour as it was formed through centuries.

Ant. Roumaneas.

Today, the oracle of Ino and other statues, which existed in the times of Pausania in Thalames, are only ruins. Even their ancient name is lost, whereas today they are called Koutifari.

In the place of the oracle of Ino there was a Byzantine temple, which was built on the ancient one, but the villagers destroyed this too to use the materials for the construction of a bigger one next to it.

Amongst the stones, there are still broken pillars and other kinds of stones from the oracle.

In that particular area, there are many relics buried in the ground, too. They are hidden, so as not to be taken by the government, but many of them get unfortunately destroyed for other reasons. They told me once that a table of marble was found, which was decorated with all kinds of flowers, but it was hidden, as they were afraid of the government.

I saw with my own eyes a ceramic pot, with a scripture I could not make out. The teacher owned a ring of exquisite beauty that comes from an earring, and shows Zeus naked sitting on a throne under an eagle.  In his right hand, he holds a sphere and in the left a scepter. I suppose that the carving, which is a masterpiece, is made of diamonds.

There is also “the sacred spring”, where from the villagers drink water, but they don’t respect it as sacred anymore.

After all this information, I decided to go to the oracle of Ino myself, which is mentioned not only by Pausania, but also by the traveler Malthelemi. The Primary school was constructed near the oracle for the children from Koutifari, Lagada. When they were building the school, they found a scripture, which is placed in the school. I didn’t have much time to devote to it. I am just mentioning some letters of it  “ΑΥΤΟΙΣ ΙΣΟΠΟΛΙΤΕΙΑΝ. ΟΙΚΙΑΣ ΕΙΣ ΚΤΗΣΙΝ…ΑΠΟ ΠΑΣΙΚΡΑΤΟΥΣ ΠΡΟΣΕΝΕΠΕ ΟΝΤΟΣ ΝΙΚΗΦΟΡΟΥ..ΕΠΙ ΕΥΡΥΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΔΑΜΟΙΑ.”

On top of the Byzantine temple, there is a small olive grove. In there, there are pillars covered with stones and earth, so as not to be seen and recognized by those who don’t know it. Above the Koutifari village, on a small hill, I was told that there is a fortress, which is called “Meligou”. As it seems, it was built in this spot due to the existence of a steep hill, to protect the Slavs Miligi, who had rebelled during the Byzantine Rule.

Built in the rocks of Taygetus, Saidona has a panoramic view to the Messinian Bay. It is considered to be a mountainous village with 236 residents (census of 1991), however the permanent residents are no more than 50. The development of Saidona is connected to the Monastery of Samoili and Vaidenitsa.

In their heyday, both of the monasteries had a considerable number of monks and properties, which they relinquished to the new inhabitants that did not have any other possessions. Today, both of them are abandoned.

In the surrounding area, there is the Temple of Faneromeni and the tower of Captain Kitriniaris, which are remarkable monuments of art and civilization.

The contribution of Saidona to the National Resistance is undeniable. In 27.3.1942, the assault of the “Nea Filiki Etairia” (New Friends Society) with Ilia Noea at head against the Italians was the starting point for the opposition of Saidona against the Germans and the Italians.

Nevertheless, the aftereffect of the civil fray was very crucial. We hope that this will never happen again; but that we all together shall help for the achievement of the national goals. Saidona honored the fighters with a statue.

The road from Kastania leads to Saidona. It was first constructed in 1969 with efforts of the locals. The country road is good enough, whereas an additional gravelling in certain parts would make the access of cars and machines easier.

The water supply is from the sources of Voidenitsa, yet the net is very old and semi destroyed so that big quantities of water are wasted. Its replacement is mandatory. Saidona is the only village with a system of irrigation of the fields.

In the Municipal Compartment of Saidona there is the Agricultural-Olive oil Association with the factory of olive oil production, which is considered to be a prosperous business. There is also the Folklore Museum with remarkable exhibits.

Saidona did not delay to realize the value of the new ways of cultivation, in particular, of organic agriculture. The soul of this attempt is the Austrian Fr. Blauel, who became very fast part of the society. Informing and helping the locals to get accustomed to the organic agriculture, he made an investment of 1.500.000.000 Dr in the Municipality of Pyrgo.

Saidona is a society constructed on values, institutions and politics that support progress, solidarity, cohesion and the planning of new challenges for the new millennium.

P.S We thank Mr Stefanos Xydeas and Konstantinos Xydeas for the above information.

Ant Roumaneas

The Municipal Compartment of Riglia consists of 3 parts, namely to say Kato Riglia, Ano Riglia and Izina (Eleochorio), whereas there are 176 inhabitants, approximately.

Turning left on the road Kalamata Areopoli we reach the square of the village. The road is partly problematic and it has to be fixed. The houses, the one close to the other inside the lanes built with stones are full of brave and gentle souls. Most of these stone houses resist against the architectural anarchy.

The main agricultural occupation is olive picking, whereas in the area there is an olive oil mill.

The central church of the village is that of Metamorphosis tou Sotiros (Kato Riglia). Aghios Georgios with its outstanding bell tower and the artful frescos, as well as Koimisi tis Theotokou (Ano Riglia) are samples of exquisite architecture.

In Riglia, there is the Cultural-Agricultural Center where the local feast takes place, which is the most important event of the year.

Going uphill to Ano Riglia one sees the abandoned olive groves, the gorges and the sweet wilderness of nature. The road is problematic, whereas it becomes even more difficult on the way to Izina. The landscape is peaceful and serene breathing out a relaxing rhythm. There are only a few permanent inhabitants and most of them are foreigners. The lack of motives, the unbelievable difficulties hinder the wish of the locals to stay there. So, it seems that in the future it will become a resort place.

As we said, the road is problematic, whereas the road to the cemetery is a mess. It should be wider and armored with cement. In case of fire, there is no way out, that is why the connection of Izina with Biala is mandatory and it is only a few meters. This is also a project of great importance in order to avoid having victims in case of fire.

Despite all these, the splendor of nature, the intact landscape and the friendly smile of the locals make you feel alive and satisfied.

What is the Government doing for this forgotten part of our country?

Ant. Roumaneas

The Municipal Compartment of Nomitsi is in between the Municipal Compartments of Platsa and Thalames in the Municipality of Lefktro. It is within a distance of 11/2 hours from Kalamata (57km) and 1/2 hour from Areopoli (25km). In 1928, it had 459 inhabitants, in 1991, 162 and today, 116 (census 2001). Village Koumanis belongs to the Municipal Compartment of Nomitsi.

It is built on the foothills of Gaidourovounio looking at the Messinian bay and Koroni. It is a vivid monument of nature and culture; it has abrupt peaks, steep gorges, slippery rocks, rocky groves, and only a few flat parts with sparse olive trees. Its fountains nourished many generations. The paths that used to connect the village to the neighbouring ones bring back old memories. The narrow lanes and the traditional stone houses show the charm of the village. The ruined towers are the proof of a glorious past. Deserted but well-preserved chapels prove the religious feelings of the locals. The church of Aghios Jeorgios, in the centre of the village, was built before 1784. The tall bell tower, which was constructed with Byzantine materials (stones and bricks) is the oldest part of the church that is still preserved, whereas to the other parts there have been renovations from time to time. The wooden temple is said to be constructed by somebody who was a run away. The only tool he had was a knife and he was getting in exchange his everyday meal. The internal part is gorgeous; it is full of frescos with rare representations of the kingdom of God and the life of the Saints. Metamorfosi (11^th cent) astonishes the visitor, although it has been plundered many times. Aghioi Anargiri (12^th Cent), Ipapadi (14^th Cent), Panaghia Jiatrissa (Kabinari) (16^th Cent), Aghios Efstratios (Pano Koumani), Aghios Nicolaos, Aghii Theodoroi, etc are all samples of ecclesiastic monuments that thanks to the efforts of the villagers have been renovated and preserved to become places of worship and prayer. Similar places that were not renovated are now ruined and deserted.

The watering of the village was done by the waters of two fountains. Women were going there not only to take water, but also to wash the clothes; the animals were watered there, too. We don’t know exactly when these fountains were constructed.

Important personality of the village was the minister and deputy Jiannis Psarreas. The road Kalamata-Areopoli, health care centres, touristic places and school buildings were built because of him. Nomitsi belongs to Taygetus, but it is under populated. The search of a better luck resulted to the abandonment of the village, which is mostly obvious during wintertime. The area is rich of natural and cultural monuments. It is mandatory to solve main problems of the village in order for the villagers to have better living conditions. The execution of important projects of infrastructure both public and private could help our village.

Our villages can bloom again!

Ant. Roumaneas

On the road to Kalamata on the right side and on the NE part of Stoupa, lies the small village called Lefktron (Xorioudaki), which has taken its name from the ancient Lefktra.

Pausanias, who passed by the area during the end of the 1^st AC Century, places Lefktra within a distance of 20 stadions from Pefno and 60 stadions from Kardamyli. Pefno was situated at the place where the village Ag. Dimitrios is today. Concerning the name Lefktra and its origin Pausanias declares ignorance. Those from Messinia sustain that they come from Lefkippos, who is Periirus’son. For this reason, the residents used to honour Aesculapius, who is considered to be Arsinois’ son, who is the daughter of Lefkippos. Pausanias says that in this area there was the statue of Aesculapius and Ino.

There is also the famous small altar of the Roman times, with a dedication to Aesculapius from someone called Tiberius Claudio Leonida.

Somewhere else there is the statue of Cassandra, Priamos’ daughter. The Spartans also called her Alexandra. In addition, there were the wooden statues of Karnio Apollon, which were similar to the ones of Lacedaemon, as well as the temple of Athena and the statue of Erotas. Those from Messinia supported the view that the boundary of Messinia-Laconia was the gorge of Milea that ends up to Pefno (Ag. Dimitrios) and was called Pamisos, the small, in contrast to the big Messinian river.

In between Lefktron and Stoupa there is a steep hill 30-50 meters high (the castle), which was used as the citadel of the ancient Lefktron.

The families who lived there were the following: Barbetseas, Georgileas, Jiannouleas and Theodorakeas. In the ancient times, most of the inhabitants lived in Lefktron, whereas in Stoupa there were only a few.

The houses were three floor towers. Nevertheless, the earthquake of 1227 destroyed everything and obliged the villagers to build up two floor houses. Later, when the danger of pirates diminished, they moved to the coast.

Inside the church of Ag Nikolaos (Theodorakeas), which is built on the east side of the castle and on the road Kalamata-Areopoli, there was a Doric capital and many ancient stones, which come from another temple, while on the foot of the hill there was a temple of Mycenaean times.

Pausanias also notes that in the area there was a grove, where there was the statue of Erotas.

In winter, a lot of water flows through it, while the leaves of the trees are not swept by the waters, no matter how many they are. He found out from testimonies that in his age, fire burst out somewhere far way, which was swept from the wind and burnt most of the trees on the coast. The statue of Ithomata Zeus appeared, which is, according to the Messinian people, the proof that the area belonged to them. Yet, it is also possible that the people of Lacedaemon also honored Ithomata Zeus.

For this reason, both the Messinians and Lacedaemonians acclaimed Lefktra or Lefktron and, finally, Filippos II gave it to Messinia.

Even though, Pausanias presents Lefktra as the city of the free Lacedaemon, he also mentions the presumption of the Messinian people that Lefktra belonged to them.

During the medieval times and the French Empire Gullielm B Villardouine won the battle with Miligi in 1249 and built the BEAUFORT castle, which means beautiful castle, on top of the hill of Lefktron. In the ruins of this castle there must be the remains of Athena’s temple. The castle belonged to the French for 13 years. In 1259, Villardouine was defeated from M. Paleologos and was put to prison along with his 12 Barons. In 1262, when he was set free, he gave as ransom, amongst others, the castle of Lefktron.

Then, the residents of Zygos won the French troops and conquered the castle. Mesopotamitis became the leader of the castle.

According to tradition, in the end of 18^th Cent or in the beginning of the 19^th Cent, Lefktron was inhabited by the sons of Maurikos Panagiotis, Jeorgios, Jiannis and Theodoros. The following churches were built by them: The church Ypapadi Sotiros, which is very beautiful with a panoramic view and the old cathedral of Lefktron, Panagitsa.

In the last years, the village was abandoned by the locals, who moved down to Stoupa and most of the houses were sold to foreigners.

Today, it is getting full again. The old houses were renovated and new ones were built with respect to tradition.

The above passage is part of the book by Jiannis Kiskireas, “Stoupa: the Fairy of Mani”.

It has to be mentioned that the income from the royalties is donated to the Ecclesiastic Council of the Church Agia Triada in Stoupa.