As a typical man from Mani, I should have started with the presentation of the village where I come from. I am doing it now after 2 successful years of travels around the villages of Mani, mainly in the Eastern (Prosiliaki) Mani and Western (Aposkieri) Mesa Mani.

Zouda is a small village at Kotrona and now of the Municipality of Eastern Mani, which reflects important aspects of the adventurous Mani.

Historically, after the first centuries of the Byzantine Empire, the Arabic pirates appear in Aegean Sea. They used Crete as their base and became the terror of the coasts. They even bombarded the capital of Constantinople. Due to this threat, our ancestors moved to the mountains: for thousands of years they were building villages on Taygetos and Saggiaki, which proves the roughness of their character. Two big stony villages (Makrinaros-Sela) and a mountain where there is cattle-breeding activity (Axrada), declare intense human presence. The mountains here belong to the families. Many high walls, fences, threshing floors and other towers leave no doubt.

The agriculture contributed to the protection of the place from time and weather conditions. There is still the breeding of cows and small beefs. As in Homer’s time, the few farmers fill the cisterns with buckets. This gives us the chance to express our big concern for the future of local cattle breeding.

Coming back to the historical facts, around 16^th cent. The Arabic threat is diminished and the Greek populations descend to the coast. Free from the empire of the state in Byzantine years, outside the Ottoman rule, people from Mani make their own terms for their survival and coexistence. The law of the stronger is the core of their philosophy.  Powerful families take the important places; they build towers, the church, the cemetery, all within a complex like a fortress, a small powerful community.

If the same parts of land were asserted by another family, battles started. This also occurred in Zouda and ended 100 -150 years ago. In the area of Tethroni and Flomochori (Kafki-Vata), the war started between two families, Lekkiani and Felurides that wanted the same parts of land, including Zouda.

The war went on for ages and ended with the victory of the first. So, Lekkiani dwell in the place and later take the name Dimakögiannis.

The tower of the family shows its important strategic place. The horizon is open in Tethroni and the Lakonic bay and also Chimara and Lakadika, Flomochori in the north of Kotrona and in the south Driali and other villages.

South of Zouda, there is the stony church of Faneromeni restored by Lekka D. Lekkaki.

Up on the mountain in the village Makrinaro, the famous pilgrimage to the church of Ai Jiorgi takes place.

Dimakogianis family lives in the seven houses of Zouda. The tower near Pyrgos was bought by Eleni Mantsarea who is planning to turn it to a guesthouse, of 4 bedrooms. The water of the village is taken from a drill in Kotrona, whereas in summer when there is extra need of water the water wagons come and go.

G.P Dimakogiannis

Mani offers to the visitor projections of magical power. During the endless summer in our country images of happiness, search, human contact, travels and escapes unfold.

Present station of this summer journey is Mavrovouni. It sits only in a short distance from Gythion. It attracts many tourists to its vast sandy beaches, of many awards from the European Union. The cultural richness and the changing surrounding render the journey more comfortable and pleasant. Huge orchards with wells and pools, as well as many contemporary buildings give a sense of prosperity and luxury and astonish the tourist. Within a distance of 2-3km, on the right side, on the road Gythion-Areopoli and in between the Koumaros hill and the river Vardounia, lies the ancient village.

When Zanetos Grigorakis became the Bey of Mani (1782) built on top of the hill an imposing castle-house, the so-called Goulades or Beanika. Next to the castle, he built a temple (Three Hieraches-Ai Jiannis) and a family cemetery, which are still preserved.

Nearby Beanika a new village emerged, which was called Melissi or Zanetoupoli.

Mavrovouni is a wonderful place of destination with fully equipped hotels, taverns, camping areas and many places for the young people.

The beach is a cool attraction. It is sandy, shallow and ready to host games and sports for youngsters and adults. Image of complete relaxation, whereas the olive and orange groves give the chance to those that live in the big cities to enjoy nature.

Mavrovouni belongs to the northern Mani. Although Mani is only a small part of Greece, it has great history. A poor land with rich presence, tradition and contribution to the creation of the Modern Greek Nation. Without fancy signs, without any exaggeration, it follows a steady path in time for centuries taking part in the cultural, social and historical life of the Greek land. The residents are proud and tough; they confronted all kinds of invasions and resisted to foreign influences, maintaining their tradition, religion and character.

Nature gave the best gifts to Mavrovouni. It was privileged with the beauty and royalty of the mountain and the vastness of the sea. All these are gathered in a surrounding that offers rare scenes, a real oasis for relaxation both in spirit and soul.

In that place, every contact with the people and nature is unique. It is always beautiful like the very first time…

Ant. Roumaneas

A’ Part

Las means stone; ancient Laconia is related to stones. The name Las was the name of an ancient town 1500 years old, which was later called Passavas and now Chosiari.

The archaeologist Annie Linardaki, candidate professor of Ancient History at the university Paris X in France, is very precise and helpful, in a relevant project, regarding the topography of ancient Las.

“It sits on a high rock and it is called La (Stefanos Byzantios, 6^th ac). The ancient town Laa, La and Las was built, in prehistoric times, on the stone hill, which was called Asia, within a distance of 8 km from Gythion (the traveller Pausanias, 160 ac). It is related to the hill of the Passavas castle or simply Castle that is within a distance of 10km to the southwest side of Gythio. This hill controls the strait of Passavas, which is the only entrance to the peninsula of Tainaro from the east side (N. Papachatzis).

Later, the ancient town was abandoned and the inhabitants moved to the fertile valley, the so-called Kardamata, and to Tourkovrisi. The new town was surrounded by the hills of Passavas, Tarbolia and Mastroleos that were called Asia, Knakadion and Ilion (Pausanias). The traveller notes that next to the new town there was a fountain called Galako. To the north on the roots of Castle, there is a fountain with milky colour (N. Papachatzis).

The port of the town was also called Las (geographer Skylax, the younger, 350 ac). It was 2km away from the centre, at the bay of Pano Vathiou (N. Papachatzis). It was used, according to Eforo (4^th bc) by the Spartans since the first year of the 1^st millennium BC – and even before at the years of Achaean, at the same time as Elos (A. Koutsilieris). In fact, the bay has a long beach and deep waters and it is rarely stormy. For this reason, it was also used, later, by the Turks and there was place, as written by the Turk Evlyia Tselebi in 1670 ac, for 100 ships; its name was then Pasalimani.

The gate Laan is mentioned first by Homer (around 8^th Cent. ac) as one of the towns of king Menelaos. In Iliad, in the list of the islands, Laa is one of the laconic towns that took part in the Troian war, with the 60 manned ships of Menelaos.

The founder of the town is Las, contemporary to the heroes of the Trojan War. His grave, according to Pausania was in Arainon, to the so called today Agerani at the southern part of Vathia.

During the ancient times, the glory of Laas was great. The excavations and the historical sources prove so. To be continued…

G.P Dimakogiannis

Krini is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Krini, Arvaniti and Sminos. It is in the middle of the alpine area of the Municipality and covers an area of 3,800,000m²_.  The 2,600,000m² are cultivated areas and the rest is pastoral land. The population was 343 residents in 1940, 294 in 1951, 238 in 1961, 142 in 1971, 166 in 1981, 133 in 1991 and 132 in 2001.

Turning on the central road Gythion-Sparta and following the narrow road that goes through the olive groves and the green lands, we cross the bridge over the waters of river Smynos and after a while we arrive at Krini village. Judging with the amateur’s look, we become aware of the old architecture of the village, which is also applied to the new constructions. However, the heavy stones of the past become lighter in the houses of the present; some houses are plastered, but the stone is still present. All of them have tiled roofs.

In the central square, there is the church Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), whereas a little bit higher there is Pentikosti (Pentecost) church.

The Cultural Association of the village is very active in issues of cultural and local interest. Now, they are constructing the place that will house their activities.

The area is watered by Agia Marina springs. The main occupation of the villagers is olive cultivation and cattle breeding.

The image of the village is constantly changing. They put asphalt on the roads, they renovate and build new constructions and new houses that will be either used as permanent residencies or just for holidays.

People come back to their roots and family houses to rest and live in the relaxing rhythms of the place. The young people are only a few, since the perspectives for new jobs are limited. There is an absolute serenity in the village that is only disturbed by the voice of the sellers. Friendly talking, greetings and names are heard. Friends meet to do their shopping and then everything is quiet again.

The absence of tourist infrastructure keeps the village out of the list of destinations for tourists. Nevertheless, people that originate from the area and have immigrated to other places for a better future, come back to visit their birthplace.

Wandering through the lanes of the village and the paths around it, we feel euphoria and wholeness. The visitor doesn’t come here to discover the archaeological places, the historic monasteries or museums, but to enjoy contact with nature and to take a fresh breath and a short break from the intense rhythms of urban life.

The images of a fading Greece by time and the demands of the modern way of life are still visible there. The area hasn’t gone to the hands of developmentalists and so it still maintains its cleanness and quietness.

Ant. Roumaneas

The centre of the Municipality of Eastern Mani is improving so as to serve its role as the centre of Mesa Mani.

On the one hand, ambitions are now being materialised by the local self-government, and on the other hand, there is important help from the private sector for the development of the surrounding area. Here, in ancient times, the city of Tefthroni enjoyed great prosperity. Monuments prove the past glory. Here, is located the first and oldest dirge of Mani, the so-called “Sosikratia”.

This year’s “Tainaria 2004”, that is the summer cultural events of the Municipality consisted of 5 stations both in culture and entertainment and were attended by many locals and foreigners (they are more extensively mentioned in another part of our hospitable newspaper).

Important projects are now under materialisation in Kotrona; some of them are:

–     The foundation of KEΠ (the public centre for the service of the civilians). The delay is due to poor infrastructure of the OTE network system.

• The tiling of the beautiful square on the beach of Kotrona, which is embellished by the statue of the admiral Ioanni Demesticha and of the captain Nikiforou in the Macedonian war 1904-1908.
• The creation of children’s playground in “Kokkinia”, whereas a suitable place is being searched for in order to make a football court 5X5.
• The buildings of the municipality and the school are being renovated; the need for new offices is mandatory after the foundation and operation of the developmental Company of the program Help in the house, etc.
• Soon, the installation of a water system will begin, which will connect Kotronas to the drilling of Parasyro-Drosopigi.
• In 2004, new traditional metal lights will be placed in the central road of Kotronas, supplied by the Municipality…

The Municipality under the guidance of the Mayor P. Tsirigonis tries for the best of the area having successfully created the adequate terms of communication and agreement amongst the municipal counsellors, who are the representatives of all three political combinations that participated in the elections of 2002.

For the development of a region, the contribution of the private sector is also very crucial. New shops and services come to serve our co patriots changing the scene of decline and abandonment. The traditional kafenio-pastry-mezedopolio “Γεύσεις..EN ΠΛΩ” of Antoni Panagakos decorates, since this summer, the beach of Kotronas. The two new mini markets of G. Mpoukouvala and N. Kouzouna were necessary, too.

We round up with the efforts for the development of the ecclesiastic monuments and the organisation of the church of Aghios Charalabos by the 35 years old priest Petro Kassidokosta, who is the father of 5 children. He distinguishes in all fields of life and contribution. He is also part of the commune effort for the development of Kotronas.

J P Dimakogiannis

East Mani is separated from the West by a part of Taygetos, which reaches Tainaro and is called “The Arm Of Mani” These two areas communicate via the gorges. One of them leads from Areopoli, which is the capital of western Mani, to Kolokinthio Municipality in east Mani. In between, extends Taygetos. Before arriving at Asini, the capital of Kolokinthio Municipality, in the entrance of the valley, we come across the village Kavvalos, which is inhabited by 60 families. I don’t exactly know the reasons why the residents moved, during the medieval times, from the ancient place to a higher area. The ruins from that dwelling are still present. Maybe, because of the water, which comes from the mountainside and sweeps along several materials that contribute to the fertility of the ground and render it suitable for the cultivation of wheat and barley. This procedure is done in a natural way, because nature has created in the fields the so-called “vithistra” (sinking spots) where the water sinks. Maybe, the water sinks in a gorge or an underground cave and flows in Diro, south of Areopoli. It must be taken into consideration that Laconia is full of tunnels and gaps in the ground, while the surface is lying in the air.

The village Kavvalos was dwelled by Greeks, which is proven by an inscription, I found there that referred to someone called Damosthenis. The letters of the inscription are barely distinguishable, because the square stone on which it was written, who knows how many years ago, was adopted by an ancient building and then it was swept by a current to another place, which is called Filiatri, where there are deep wells, where from the residents take water. I suppose the ancient name of the village was Filiatri and not Kavvalos. The present inhabitants maintained the ancient name and due to this natural need for water they call the wells Filiatri. In the place of Kavvalos, coins and rings were found; one of them has a carved fish on top.

Consequently, we come to the conclusion that during the ancient times, Greeks lived in the area, but either due to the flood or due to other reasons, they moved higher and later they came back to the ancient place, where they built their houses again. Some of them even built their houses on the ruins.

Athanasios Petridis-Head of Areopoli School(1870).

Municipal Compartment of Gythion with 146 residents, Karyoupoli consists, according to the census of 2001, of the village of Karyoupoli (39 residents), Vryses (39 residents), Laggada (35 residents) and Prytova (33 residents). In former days, it was the capital of Gythion. It lies on the eastern part of Taygetus and NE of Gythion. This superb and imposing Byzantine village bears memories and deeds of a glorious past. It was the Byzantine center of Mani and the headquarters of the Episcope, the ruins of which are still preserved close to the castle of Karyoupoli, which belonged to the Diocese of Lacedaemon or to the Diocese of Monemvasia.

After the fall of Mystras, follows the decline. Relics of the Byzantine period are the Tower, the church of Ag Nikolaos (13^th Cent.), remnants from graves and cisterns and constructions of that time.

The fortress of Kavallierakis and Fokas, as well as the tower of Kosonakos, a masterpiece of 19^th Cent, built on the highest spot of the hill, blocked the way to Mani. On the west, there is the temple of Ag. Petros and next to the tower of Kosonakos there is the temple of Virgin Mary.

The contribution of the families Kavallierakis and Kosonakos to the liberation of the State has been multiple.

Kavallierakis Ravoulios; He participated to the siege of Tripoli and Nauplio in 1821 and fell in a battle in Kioski in Nauplio in 20^th August 1822.

Kavallierakis Theodoros; He took part in the siege of Monemvasia, Tripoli, Nauplio and Corinth. In the descent of Ibrahim, he bravely fought at the Messinian fortresses. In the battle of Diros, he was deprived with other 5 fighters; he confronted a mass of Egyptians.

Kosonakos-Fokas Jeorgios: he served in the army during the revolution in Crete in 1866, when as the leader of a platoon of volunteers came to Crete and was put under the orders of Dimitrios Petroulakis. He bravely fought taking part in 1867 in the battles in Pediada (Kara Pigadi) and in Malevizio (the gorge of Vathypetro) against Omer Pasha.  He left Crete in the end of 1867 by the ship Arkadi, which was sank and so he drowned.

Kosonakos Ilias: He volunteered in the revolution of Crete in 1866 in the volunteers’ troop, which was under the command of his brother and fought on his side.

Kosonakos Konstantinos (1843-1910): He studied law and at a very young age, he devoted himself to politics. In fact, he was elected deputy of Laconia with the party of Harilaos Trikoupis. He served as director of the governmental police in Athens; when he came back to politics in 1865, during the government of Trikoupis, he served as Minister of Education.

The people of Karyoupoli are not above 60 years old and occupy themselves with olives and cattle rising. Only for a few months do they welcome those who come to cherish the peacefulness of the village and the surrounding nature. Then, the houses are alive again and the square is full with familiar faces and children that give life and meaning to the village.

Karyoupoli is more than 12 centuries old; it is really a village of exquisite beauty.

It’s been centuries of history for a place full of memories, immortal like the soul of people.

Karyoupoli should be dealt as a huge place of civilization, which should be respected.

In order for a civilization to stay alive the memory should stay alive, too. Karyoupoli should keep the memory of the past, restructuring its identity with time lasting original characteristics.

Ant. Roumaneas

History:

It is not historically proven when and by whom the ancient Gythion was built. There is only a myth that it was built both by Apollo and Hercules after they came in terms with each other (Pausanias II21,8). This is the reason why it was called “Gaia of Gods” (Land of Gods). This tradition that Gythion is one of the most ancient cities in Laconia, since it was built in mythical times, is only theoretical. Homer does not speak of it apart from island Kranai, whereas he mentions the cities Avgia on our side and Lax to the south.

It is possible that Gythion was overshadowed by the city Las, until it was destroyed and declined. Pausanias, Oratios, Ovidios and Markalios praised the scarlet clothing in Laconia. It is proven from inscriptions that in Gythion there was the acme of a Roman commercial colony, since Roman bankers, due to the acme of commerce and industries of scarlet clothing and marbles, rendered it to an important commercial and exporting center.

Xenofon refers to Gythion as the military port of Sparte. The Athenian Talmidis conquered Gythion in 456BC. In 410BC, Alkiviades was spying, if they were recruiting new navy after his victory in Kyziko. In 370BC, it is conquered by Thivei, whereas Isidas and Gythii take it back in 388BC using the trick of the nudist contests and the hidden swords with which they massacred Thivei. In 222BC, Philippe invades Gythion. The social changes by the king of Sparte Navi (207 BC) were very important for the whole area of Mani. Many wealthy people from Sparte came to Mani choosing mostly places near the sea, like Gythio, Las, etc. Mani becomes more independent politically and financially from Sparte with the creation of the autonomous confederation of the cities in southern Laconia. Since that era and up to the first centuries AC, Gythion was equal to the flourishing cities of Greece, such as Corinth, Thessalonica, Nikopoli, Mantinia, since it had become an important center of commerce. It had richness of natural products, such as marbles and fabrics, which served the luxurious tastes of the Romans at that time. During that time, most of the temples, the theatre, and the baths as well as the aqueduct of Gythion were erected.

The period of development of the Roman times is followed by the first Byzantine years, during which Mani becomes part of Macedonia (337 AC). In 375 AC, a powerful earthquake destroys parts of the city. The Goths in 395 AC destroy Sparte, which is in decline, finishing off the results of the earthquake.

During the 4^th Cent, the Confederation is also torn apart.

After the 6^th Cent, it falls to invisibility.

In 1836AC, the new city is founded in the place of the old and keeps the same name.

Monuments and sightseeing: It is worth mentioning the theatre in the NW of Gythion constructed during the Roman times with stones. On the SE there was the ancient market, which was extended up to the coast. The statues of Apollo and Hercules decorated the market. There were also the statues of Dimitra, Dionysus and Asclepiads. 50m above the theatre, there are the remains of a wall from the citadel of the city. On the citadel, there used to be the temple of Athena. Near the temple of Agia Triada there was the graveyard that belongs to the Hellenistic times and on the west of the city a semicircular space, where the conferences were taking place.

The museum of Gythion has important collections of inscriptions, coins, pottery, etc.

The island Kranai is the jewelry of Gythion. Since 1898 it is connected to the city by a breakwater, which made the port safer and rendered the communication of the villagers easier. According to mythology Kranai was the bridal place of the godlike Alexander and the kidnapped Belle Helene. Kranai was inhabited in the Neolithic era and was of great importance during the Mycenaean period. During the medieval times it was called Marathonisi, because the island was covered by fennels (marathos). This was also the name of Gythion during the pre revolutionary years and in 1821. During the last years of the Turkish Rule, the tower of Tzanet-Bey was built, which is now renovated and operates as a Historical and National museum with rich exhibits.

The lighthouse of Kranai was constructed in 1873 with marble from Tainaro. The building has eight corners and is 23m tall. It is one of the best lighthouses in Greece for the harmonious lines and the luxurious construction. The surface is decorated with natural green floor, olive trees and wooden bends for the visitors.

That’s all for Gythion of the past. We shall refer to Gythion of the present in the following issue.

Ant. Roumaneas

It is one of biggest local compartments of Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Aigies, Malliaris, Sykia and Synora. At the census, in 2001, there were 319 inhabitants. The population has many times changed. In the past, the population either increased or decreased. In 1940, there were 188 inhabitants, in 1951, 250, 1961, 449, in1971, 326, 1981, 302 and in 1991, 291. Aigies is part of the lowland at the Municipality and covers an area of 7.300.000m². The 6.100.000m² are cultivated and the rest is pastoral land.

It is on the NW part of Gythion whereas the road Gythion –Sparte passes through the village. In the past, it was called Koutoumou.

The area is of archaeological interest,too. At the place of ancient Aigies (Pano Koutoumou) archaeological findings were located after excavations; part of them is exhibited at the Museum of Antiquities in Sparte. The old name “Hania Koutoumou” has to do with the fact that there were places of relaxation (hania) were people and animals could take temporary rest on their way to Sparte.

A short tour to the village brings us close to its natural beauty and creations of mankind.

The church Metamorfosis is imposing, whereas next to it, there is still the older so called little church. There are many arguments on whether it should be maintained or not. The feast at Metamorfosis day is very important; it is celebrated with special honours, whereas at the same day the Local Cultural Association organises the local feast.

Other important churches are Zoodohos Pigi, Agios Petros and Ai Lias at the cemetery.

The villagers occupy themselves with olive and wheat cultivation and cattle breeding for domestic use. At the area, there is a factory of Kalamata olives processing. 5-6 people are employed, whereas the biggest part of the product is exported.

The area has many subterranean waters that are used to water the plain. The watering system is connected to the springs of Agia Marina at Smynos Municipality.

The basic products of the village are olive oil, edible olives, oranges and honey. The building of the old school is temporarily used by the High school of Professions.

Aigies is a well taken care of village that still maintains big part of its population. There are 2-3 kafeneia and the traditional taverna next to Sotiras church.

It is a magnificent village with beautiful houses, green sceneries, trees, flowers and orchards.

Ant. Roumaneas

Agios Vasileios is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It is part of the lowland and consists of the villages Agios Vasileios, Agios Efstratios and Monahis Sikias. The census in 2001 recorded 180 inhabitants, whereas the population is constantly decreasing. In 1940, there were 290 inhabitants, in 1951, 259, in 1961, 268, in 1971, 222, in 1981, 195 and in 1991, 180. It sits on the west side of Gythion, only 2 km from the country road Areopoli-Gythion Sparta. It covers an area of 5.400.000 m², half of which is cultivated area and the rest pastoral land.

All those attracted to the beauty of nature will not be disappointed when they arrive here. Soon, they will come to the green scenery away from the dull images of the cemented cities. Wandering in the lanes of the village, the visitor feels euphoria and wholeness. He will not come here to discover archaeological sites, historic monasteries or museums, but to enjoy the contact with nature during a short break from the intense rhythms of urban life.

Agios Vasileios church, which is the parish church of the village was built a few years ago. Agia kyriaki, Panagitsa and Ai Jiannis are some of the chapels of the area.

Agios Ioannis is the name of the Cultural Association of the village that organizes on 28^th August, on the eve of Agios Ioannis name day, the annual feast.

During summer, the village is full with summer visitors that come back for a few days to their birthplace.

Agios Vasileios and the villages are picturesque places that maintain their local colors. Four-sided tiled roofs, stonewalls, some plastered walls, beautiful houses surrounded by flowers, all very neat and clean. The old vine arbour is also present. The yards of the houses become the cool place to sit in hot summer months. White benches, colourful pots with basil, mint, roses and night flowers. The orchards offer delicious and pure vegetables.

The water comes from the springs at Agia Marina. The basic occupation of the inhabitants is olive cultivation and cattle breeding.

Part of the inhabitants works in Gythion. The young people who are still in the village fight to make ends meet. They never stop looking for new ways that will keep them connected to their birthplace.

Agios Vasileios isn’t a destination for tourists. There are no guesthouses, no coffee shops, no tavernas and bars. However, the beauty of the place is magic and enchants the visitor.

Ant Roumaneas