The Municipal Compartment of Nomitsi is in between the Municipal Compartments of Platsa and Thalames in the Municipality of Lefktro. It is within a distance of 11/2 hours from Kalamata (57km) and 1/2 hour from Areopoli (25km). In 1928, it had 459 inhabitants, in 1991, 162 and today, 116 (census 2001). Village Koumanis belongs to the Municipal Compartment of Nomitsi.

It is built on the foothills of Gaidourovounio looking at the Messinian bay and Koroni. It is a vivid monument of nature and culture; it has abrupt peaks, steep gorges, slippery rocks, rocky groves, and only a few flat parts with sparse olive trees. Its fountains nourished many generations. The paths that used to connect the village to the neighbouring ones bring back old memories. The narrow lanes and the traditional stone houses show the charm of the village. The ruined towers are the proof of a glorious past. Deserted but well-preserved chapels prove the religious feelings of the locals. The church of Aghios Jeorgios, in the centre of the village, was built before 1784. The tall bell tower, which was constructed with Byzantine materials (stones and bricks) is the oldest part of the church that is still preserved, whereas to the other parts there have been renovations from time to time. The wooden temple is said to be constructed by somebody who was a run away. The only tool he had was a knife and he was getting in exchange his everyday meal. The internal part is gorgeous; it is full of frescos with rare representations of the kingdom of God and the life of the Saints. Metamorfosi (11^th cent) astonishes the visitor, although it has been plundered many times. Aghioi Anargiri (12^th Cent), Ipapadi (14^th Cent), Panaghia Jiatrissa (Kabinari) (16^th Cent), Aghios Efstratios (Pano Koumani), Aghios Nicolaos, Aghii Theodoroi, etc are all samples of ecclesiastic monuments that thanks to the efforts of the villagers have been renovated and preserved to become places of worship and prayer. Similar places that were not renovated are now ruined and deserted.

The watering of the village was done by the waters of two fountains. Women were going there not only to take water, but also to wash the clothes; the animals were watered there, too. We don’t know exactly when these fountains were constructed.

Important personality of the village was the minister and deputy Jiannis Psarreas. The road Kalamata-Areopoli, health care centres, touristic places and school buildings were built because of him. Nomitsi belongs to Taygetus, but it is under populated. The search of a better luck resulted to the abandonment of the village, which is mostly obvious during wintertime. The area is rich of natural and cultural monuments. It is mandatory to solve main problems of the village in order for the villagers to have better living conditions. The execution of important projects of infrastructure both public and private could help our village.

Our villages can bloom again!

Ant. Roumaneas

On the road to Kalamata on the right side and on the NE part of Stoupa, lies the small village called Lefktron (Xorioudaki), which has taken its name from the ancient Lefktra.

Pausanias, who passed by the area during the end of the 1^st AC Century, places Lefktra within a distance of 20 stadions from Pefno and 60 stadions from Kardamyli. Pefno was situated at the place where the village Ag. Dimitrios is today. Concerning the name Lefktra and its origin Pausanias declares ignorance. Those from Messinia sustain that they come from Lefkippos, who is Periirus’son. For this reason, the residents used to honour Aesculapius, who is considered to be Arsinois’ son, who is the daughter of Lefkippos. Pausanias says that in this area there was the statue of Aesculapius and Ino.

There is also the famous small altar of the Roman times, with a dedication to Aesculapius from someone called Tiberius Claudio Leonida.

Somewhere else there is the statue of Cassandra, Priamos’ daughter. The Spartans also called her Alexandra. In addition, there were the wooden statues of Karnio Apollon, which were similar to the ones of Lacedaemon, as well as the temple of Athena and the statue of Erotas. Those from Messinia supported the view that the boundary of Messinia-Laconia was the gorge of Milea that ends up to Pefno (Ag. Dimitrios) and was called Pamisos, the small, in contrast to the big Messinian river.

In between Lefktron and Stoupa there is a steep hill 30-50 meters high (the castle), which was used as the citadel of the ancient Lefktron.

The families who lived there were the following: Barbetseas, Georgileas, Jiannouleas and Theodorakeas. In the ancient times, most of the inhabitants lived in Lefktron, whereas in Stoupa there were only a few.

The houses were three floor towers. Nevertheless, the earthquake of 1227 destroyed everything and obliged the villagers to build up two floor houses. Later, when the danger of pirates diminished, they moved to the coast.

Inside the church of Ag Nikolaos (Theodorakeas), which is built on the east side of the castle and on the road Kalamata-Areopoli, there was a Doric capital and many ancient stones, which come from another temple, while on the foot of the hill there was a temple of Mycenaean times.

Pausanias also notes that in the area there was a grove, where there was the statue of Erotas.

In winter, a lot of water flows through it, while the leaves of the trees are not swept by the waters, no matter how many they are. He found out from testimonies that in his age, fire burst out somewhere far way, which was swept from the wind and burnt most of the trees on the coast. The statue of Ithomata Zeus appeared, which is, according to the Messinian people, the proof that the area belonged to them. Yet, it is also possible that the people of Lacedaemon also honored Ithomata Zeus.

For this reason, both the Messinians and Lacedaemonians acclaimed Lefktra or Lefktron and, finally, Filippos II gave it to Messinia.

Even though, Pausanias presents Lefktra as the city of the free Lacedaemon, he also mentions the presumption of the Messinian people that Lefktra belonged to them.

During the medieval times and the French Empire Gullielm B Villardouine won the battle with Miligi in 1249 and built the BEAUFORT castle, which means beautiful castle, on top of the hill of Lefktron. In the ruins of this castle there must be the remains of Athena’s temple. The castle belonged to the French for 13 years. In 1259, Villardouine was defeated from M. Paleologos and was put to prison along with his 12 Barons. In 1262, when he was set free, he gave as ransom, amongst others, the castle of Lefktron.

Then, the residents of Zygos won the French troops and conquered the castle. Mesopotamitis became the leader of the castle.

According to tradition, in the end of 18^th Cent or in the beginning of the 19^th Cent, Lefktron was inhabited by the sons of Maurikos Panagiotis, Jeorgios, Jiannis and Theodoros. The following churches were built by them: The church Ypapadi Sotiros, which is very beautiful with a panoramic view and the old cathedral of Lefktron, Panagitsa.

In the last years, the village was abandoned by the locals, who moved down to Stoupa and most of the houses were sold to foreigners.

Today, it is getting full again. The old houses were renovated and new ones were built with respect to tradition.

The above passage is part of the book by Jiannis Kiskireas, “Stoupa: the Fairy of Mani”.

It has to be mentioned that the income from the royalties is donated to the Ecclesiastic Council of the Church Agia Triada in Stoupa.

“Right after Izina, I want to go up and walk around Theouses, Kastania is the name, to write about their birthplace, and then to go away.”              Nikitas Nifakos

Built on the slope of Taygetus, it was the fortress and refuge of the klephts during the Turkish occupation. It is 8 km away from the country road Kalamata-Areopoli, whereas the transportation is via bus two times per day, morning and afternoon. However, there is still more to be done, in order to improve the road, which was constructed by the locals themselves in 1969 with little financial help from the Prefecture. We shouldn’t forget to mention the president of the community, Panagiotis Lybereas, who fell on duty and was trying to make the dream of the villagers of Kastania come true.

Kastania is a traditional village, distinguished by the tikles roofs that now tend to be replaced by tiles, which are easier and cheaper.

In the past, there were 7 watermills, but today there are only the ruins. The villagers have decided to open one of them to become a place of visit and historical testimony.

The five floor Dourakis tower sits in the center of the village abandoned and deserted in the mercy of the weather phenomena, hiding danger for the passer by and the near by properties, although there is a study of renovation since 1990. It is said that Kolokotronis found refuge there, at the persecution of the klephts in 1803.

Kastania used to be the headquarters of the Episcopate; it is full of worth mentioning Byzantine churches, such as Aghios Petros (12^th Cent.), Aghios Ioannis (13^th Cent.), Aghios Nikolaos (13^th Cent.), Aghios Jeorgios, The Assumption of the Virgin Mary, etc. These churches are of superb architecture with wonderful frescos that have unfortunately been ruined, by time and humidity.

The taverna-cafeteria opened 15 years ago with the initiation and financial help of J.Koutrouvidas, as well as by the donations and personal help of the villagers next to the public water supply reservoir and is a pole of attraction for the visitors of the sea coast, who come to watch the sights, to rest and satisfy their appetite.

Nevertheless, life here is difficult, as in the rest of the mountainous villages of Mani. The population is 196 villagers (census of 1991), but the permanent inhabitants are less.

Big part of the population is pensioners, whereas the others occupy themselves with olives cultivation and cattle breeding.

The transportation of the students (3 at the Primary school of Stoupa, 9 at the Gymnasium and High school of Kardamyli) is a big problem. However, this is already solved by the buses, which are provided by the Parent-teacher Association of Stoupa to the Municipality.

The road and water system are also problematic. The country roads are few and not well preserved and consequently transportation, especially during the olive picking, is difficult.

As for the water system, during the summer, it is not enough. At this moment, they are taking water with a simple pipe from the fountain at the monastery of Aghios Konstantinos.

The water supply from the community water network is inappropriate. It

The road to Kardamyli either from Kalamata (38 Km) or Areopoli (42 KM) reveals something unique. One cannot remain indifferent. If we take the country road Kalamata-Areopoli we pass through small villages, inhabited places, while the landscape is gorgeous and unique. The gorges, the mountains and the contact with the beauty of Mani constitute a unique experience.

Kardamyli is one of the main stations. As we go uphill to the old village, we see images of unique beauty, which transfer the visitor to another dreaming reality.

“Agios Spiridon” with the high bell tower is a monument of supreme architecture. It is also a place of worship. After the renovation the complex of “Troupakis” towers became a museum. Many exhibits of historical tradition are hosted there. The history of 3000 years (ancient, Romaic, Byzantine, modern-Greek) has its traces and is the inheritance of younger generations.

Kardamyli, however, does not only have a past. Exploring Kardamyli from the one end to the other, you will discover the ideal place for vacations. It is perfect all year long, even in mid winter. The weather is mild and even more during the summer.

All those who love trekking can walk through Viros gorge, which is a 20 Km walk and is one of the longest and most important gorges of Greece. This is a unique experience.

The area is also excellent for swimming and water sports. Golden beaches, emerald waters and blue shades attract those who visit the place.

The tourist and traditional shops, the antiquaries, the traditional cafés and the picturesque tavernas constitute the web of the village.

There are many hotels, which can satisfy even the most demanding visitors. There are also family apartments, bungalows, rooms fully equipped and surrounded by beautiful gardens. In addition, the beautiful flowers and the bloomy exotic bougainvilleas create moments of relaxation.

There is the appropriate background both for those who are fond of quietness and those who are uneasy.

Past and history intermingle harmoniously with the present and compose a wholeness. Nevertheless, the area is heaving with people. As a consequence, the expansion of the village is necessary. The most important measure to be taken is the application of the construction planning dated in 1874.

For a better future there has to be better use. Will there be?

There is no doubt that the visitor, after 50 km from Kalamata or 30 km from Areopoli, will find himself in a place of exquisite beauty, in one of the most beautiful villages of the Municipality of Lefktron.

It is a fishers’ village; the boats leave the port for short journeys to the sea and come back with many fish, which they give to the picturesque local tavernas both of the village and of the neighboring ones.

The sea is vast and blue, while the fishing boats swing under the sun that is reflected on the water. Simple everyday things that create imaginary images.

Fortunately, human beings have not altered the surroundings. The two-floor traditional houses and the tile roofs are all around the port. It was from this port that people distributed goods to the upper villages. The small tavernas next to the sea have delicious “mezedes”.

Winter is soft and summer is cool, so one can visit the village all year long.

Everyone is having a good time; the visitors-the tourists and the owners of the tavernas, hotels, apartments and small shops with the souvenirs and the objects of folklore art.

Walking along the road on the beach and the narrow lanes, one realizes that everything is balanced. The houses are well taken care of, the people are simple and friendly; different images from the ones we see in the cities. After the sunset the lighted lanes lead us to the restaurants and the tavernas to taste the Greek cuisine.

The beauties are many combining elements from the Greek islands.

The area of Gnospi with the sea caves and the picturesque small church of Agios Thomas constitute the ideal place to relax.

The Pantazi beach full of pine trees is a temptation. It is sandy beach ready to welcome youngsters and grownups.

Next to Pantazi lies the Malsova beach with the picturesque small church of Agios Jiannis Riganas very close to the sea and further aside the spring from the bottom of the sea.

There is also Agios Dimitrios with the pebbles on the beach and Christeas tower, which is a symbol of glory of the past.

Further on there is the cave “Katafigio” with a deep sea and undiscovered beauties. Marbled rocks and stony beaches welcome the summer visitors who come to enjoy the bluish colors of the sea and the primitive site.

Agios Nikolaos can be the starting point for those who want to meet the mountainous area on foot. Old paths made in the past to connect the upper villages to those on the seaside, are now ideal for trekking for all those who want to see the flora and fauna of Mani, the natural constructions as well as the village of Kotroni, Pigi (Lozna) and Platsa.

All those who have not started their vacations yet, can go there now. They will have unique and unforgettable memories.

Ant. Roumaneas

As a typical man from Mani, I should have started with the presentation of the village where I come from. I am doing it now after 2 successful years of travels around the villages of Mani, mainly in the Eastern (Prosiliaki) Mani and Western (Aposkieri) Mesa Mani.

Zouda is a small village at Kotrona and now of the Municipality of Eastern Mani, which reflects important aspects of the adventurous Mani.

Historically, after the first centuries of the Byzantine Empire, the Arabic pirates appear in Aegean Sea. They used Crete as their base and became the terror of the coasts. They even bombarded the capital of Constantinople. Due to this threat, our ancestors moved to the mountains: for thousands of years they were building villages on Taygetos and Saggiaki, which proves the roughness of their character. Two big stony villages (Makrinaros-Sela) and a mountain where there is cattle-breeding activity (Axrada), declare intense human presence. The mountains here belong to the families. Many high walls, fences, threshing floors and other towers leave no doubt.

The agriculture contributed to the protection of the place from time and weather conditions. There is still the breeding of cows and small beefs. As in Homer’s time, the few farmers fill the cisterns with buckets. This gives us the chance to express our big concern for the future of local cattle breeding.

Coming back to the historical facts, around 16^th cent. The Arabic threat is diminished and the Greek populations descend to the coast. Free from the empire of the state in Byzantine years, outside the Ottoman rule, people from Mani make their own terms for their survival and coexistence. The law of the stronger is the core of their philosophy.  Powerful families take the important places; they build towers, the church, the cemetery, all within a complex like a fortress, a small powerful community.

If the same parts of land were asserted by another family, battles started. This also occurred in Zouda and ended 100 -150 years ago. In the area of Tethroni and Flomochori (Kafki-Vata), the war started between two families, Lekkiani and Felurides that wanted the same parts of land, including Zouda.

The war went on for ages and ended with the victory of the first. So, Lekkiani dwell in the place and later take the name Dimakögiannis.

The tower of the family shows its important strategic place. The horizon is open in Tethroni and the Lakonic bay and also Chimara and Lakadika, Flomochori in the north of Kotrona and in the south Driali and other villages.

South of Zouda, there is the stony church of Faneromeni restored by Lekka D. Lekkaki.

Up on the mountain in the village Makrinaro, the famous pilgrimage to the church of Ai Jiorgi takes place.

Dimakogianis family lives in the seven houses of Zouda. The tower near Pyrgos was bought by Eleni Mantsarea who is planning to turn it to a guesthouse, of 4 bedrooms. The water of the village is taken from a drill in Kotrona, whereas in summer when there is extra need of water the water wagons come and go.

G.P Dimakogiannis

Mani offers to the visitor projections of magical power. During the endless summer in our country images of happiness, search, human contact, travels and escapes unfold.

Present station of this summer journey is Mavrovouni. It sits only in a short distance from Gythion. It attracts many tourists to its vast sandy beaches, of many awards from the European Union. The cultural richness and the changing surrounding render the journey more comfortable and pleasant. Huge orchards with wells and pools, as well as many contemporary buildings give a sense of prosperity and luxury and astonish the tourist. Within a distance of 2-3km, on the right side, on the road Gythion-Areopoli and in between the Koumaros hill and the river Vardounia, lies the ancient village.

When Zanetos Grigorakis became the Bey of Mani (1782) built on top of the hill an imposing castle-house, the so-called Goulades or Beanika. Next to the castle, he built a temple (Three Hieraches-Ai Jiannis) and a family cemetery, which are still preserved.

Nearby Beanika a new village emerged, which was called Melissi or Zanetoupoli.

Mavrovouni is a wonderful place of destination with fully equipped hotels, taverns, camping areas and many places for the young people.

The beach is a cool attraction. It is sandy, shallow and ready to host games and sports for youngsters and adults. Image of complete relaxation, whereas the olive and orange groves give the chance to those that live in the big cities to enjoy nature.

Mavrovouni belongs to the northern Mani. Although Mani is only a small part of Greece, it has great history. A poor land with rich presence, tradition and contribution to the creation of the Modern Greek Nation. Without fancy signs, without any exaggeration, it follows a steady path in time for centuries taking part in the cultural, social and historical life of the Greek land. The residents are proud and tough; they confronted all kinds of invasions and resisted to foreign influences, maintaining their tradition, religion and character.

Nature gave the best gifts to Mavrovouni. It was privileged with the beauty and royalty of the mountain and the vastness of the sea. All these are gathered in a surrounding that offers rare scenes, a real oasis for relaxation both in spirit and soul.

In that place, every contact with the people and nature is unique. It is always beautiful like the very first time…

Ant. Roumaneas

A’ Part

Las means stone; ancient Laconia is related to stones. The name Las was the name of an ancient town 1500 years old, which was later called Passavas and now Chosiari.

The archaeologist Annie Linardaki, candidate professor of Ancient History at the university Paris X in France, is very precise and helpful, in a relevant project, regarding the topography of ancient Las.

“It sits on a high rock and it is called La (Stefanos Byzantios, 6^th ac). The ancient town Laa, La and Las was built, in prehistoric times, on the stone hill, which was called Asia, within a distance of 8 km from Gythion (the traveller Pausanias, 160 ac). It is related to the hill of the Passavas castle or simply Castle that is within a distance of 10km to the southwest side of Gythio. This hill controls the strait of Passavas, which is the only entrance to the peninsula of Tainaro from the east side (N. Papachatzis).

Later, the ancient town was abandoned and the inhabitants moved to the fertile valley, the so-called Kardamata, and to Tourkovrisi. The new town was surrounded by the hills of Passavas, Tarbolia and Mastroleos that were called Asia, Knakadion and Ilion (Pausanias). The traveller notes that next to the new town there was a fountain called Galako. To the north on the roots of Castle, there is a fountain with milky colour (N. Papachatzis).

The port of the town was also called Las (geographer Skylax, the younger, 350 ac). It was 2km away from the centre, at the bay of Pano Vathiou (N. Papachatzis). It was used, according to Eforo (4^th bc) by the Spartans since the first year of the 1^st millennium BC – and even before at the years of Achaean, at the same time as Elos (A. Koutsilieris). In fact, the bay has a long beach and deep waters and it is rarely stormy. For this reason, it was also used, later, by the Turks and there was place, as written by the Turk Evlyia Tselebi in 1670 ac, for 100 ships; its name was then Pasalimani.

The gate Laan is mentioned first by Homer (around 8^th Cent. ac) as one of the towns of king Menelaos. In Iliad, in the list of the islands, Laa is one of the laconic towns that took part in the Troian war, with the 60 manned ships of Menelaos.

The founder of the town is Las, contemporary to the heroes of the Trojan War. His grave, according to Pausania was in Arainon, to the so called today Agerani at the southern part of Vathia.

During the ancient times, the glory of Laas was great. The excavations and the historical sources prove so. To be continued…

G.P Dimakogiannis

Krini is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Krini, Arvaniti and Sminos. It is in the middle of the alpine area of the Municipality and covers an area of 3,800,000m²_.  The 2,600,000m² are cultivated areas and the rest is pastoral land. The population was 343 residents in 1940, 294 in 1951, 238 in 1961, 142 in 1971, 166 in 1981, 133 in 1991 and 132 in 2001.

Turning on the central road Gythion-Sparta and following the narrow road that goes through the olive groves and the green lands, we cross the bridge over the waters of river Smynos and after a while we arrive at Krini village. Judging with the amateur’s look, we become aware of the old architecture of the village, which is also applied to the new constructions. However, the heavy stones of the past become lighter in the houses of the present; some houses are plastered, but the stone is still present. All of them have tiled roofs.

In the central square, there is the church Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), whereas a little bit higher there is Pentikosti (Pentecost) church.

The Cultural Association of the village is very active in issues of cultural and local interest. Now, they are constructing the place that will house their activities.

The area is watered by Agia Marina springs. The main occupation of the villagers is olive cultivation and cattle breeding.

The image of the village is constantly changing. They put asphalt on the roads, they renovate and build new constructions and new houses that will be either used as permanent residencies or just for holidays.

People come back to their roots and family houses to rest and live in the relaxing rhythms of the place. The young people are only a few, since the perspectives for new jobs are limited. There is an absolute serenity in the village that is only disturbed by the voice of the sellers. Friendly talking, greetings and names are heard. Friends meet to do their shopping and then everything is quiet again.

The absence of tourist infrastructure keeps the village out of the list of destinations for tourists. Nevertheless, people that originate from the area and have immigrated to other places for a better future, come back to visit their birthplace.

Wandering through the lanes of the village and the paths around it, we feel euphoria and wholeness. The visitor doesn’t come here to discover the archaeological places, the historic monasteries or museums, but to enjoy contact with nature and to take a fresh breath and a short break from the intense rhythms of urban life.

The images of a fading Greece by time and the demands of the modern way of life are still visible there. The area hasn’t gone to the hands of developmentalists and so it still maintains its cleanness and quietness.

Ant. Roumaneas

The centre of the Municipality of Eastern Mani is improving so as to serve its role as the centre of Mesa Mani.

On the one hand, ambitions are now being materialised by the local self-government, and on the other hand, there is important help from the private sector for the development of the surrounding area. Here, in ancient times, the city of Tefthroni enjoyed great prosperity. Monuments prove the past glory. Here, is located the first and oldest dirge of Mani, the so-called “Sosikratia”.

This year’s “Tainaria 2004”, that is the summer cultural events of the Municipality consisted of 5 stations both in culture and entertainment and were attended by many locals and foreigners (they are more extensively mentioned in another part of our hospitable newspaper).

Important projects are now under materialisation in Kotrona; some of them are:

–     The foundation of KEΠ (the public centre for the service of the civilians). The delay is due to poor infrastructure of the OTE network system.

• The tiling of the beautiful square on the beach of Kotrona, which is embellished by the statue of the admiral Ioanni Demesticha and of the captain Nikiforou in the Macedonian war 1904-1908.
• The creation of children’s playground in “Kokkinia”, whereas a suitable place is being searched for in order to make a football court 5X5.
• The buildings of the municipality and the school are being renovated; the need for new offices is mandatory after the foundation and operation of the developmental Company of the program Help in the house, etc.
• Soon, the installation of a water system will begin, which will connect Kotronas to the drilling of Parasyro-Drosopigi.
• In 2004, new traditional metal lights will be placed in the central road of Kotronas, supplied by the Municipality…

The Municipality under the guidance of the Mayor P. Tsirigonis tries for the best of the area having successfully created the adequate terms of communication and agreement amongst the municipal counsellors, who are the representatives of all three political combinations that participated in the elections of 2002.

For the development of a region, the contribution of the private sector is also very crucial. New shops and services come to serve our co patriots changing the scene of decline and abandonment. The traditional kafenio-pastry-mezedopolio “Γεύσεις..EN ΠΛΩ” of Antoni Panagakos decorates, since this summer, the beach of Kotronas. The two new mini markets of G. Mpoukouvala and N. Kouzouna were necessary, too.

We round up with the efforts for the development of the ecclesiastic monuments and the organisation of the church of Aghios Charalabos by the 35 years old priest Petro Kassidokosta, who is the father of 5 children. He distinguishes in all fields of life and contribution. He is also part of the commune effort for the development of Kotronas.

J P Dimakogiannis