…”First is Kastanitza

renowned all over the world

Turks think

it’s drunk.,

Then, poor Selegoudi,

Kokkina Louria, Agios Nicolaos

and two other villages,

Maltzina is the one,

Arhontiko is the other

and there are no more”…

This is how Nikitas Nifos or Nifakos (1740-1818), the national poet of Mani, as he is called by the great Maniot poet Panos N. Panagiotounis, finishes the description of the villages of Exo Mani.

According to Nik. Nifakos, Arhontiko is the last village of Exo Prosiliaki Mani. Built on the right side of Smynos River, it is one of the villages of Dothe Riza, as we call the villages at the right side of the river. Arhontiko is the only village that has a direct view to the tranquil river after its wild course in the precipitous gorge.

Arhontiko is a Municipal Compartment of Smynos Municipality. Since 1912, it was a self-sufficient community. Village Sina that is opposite Arhontiko, next to the left side riverbank and above the riverbed of the tributary of the torrent Kolopana, used to belong to the community. Close to Sina, there are the impressive remnants of the ancient multi arched bridge, which was 100m long and served as the canal of the water from Smynos River -above Kolopana-up to ancient Gythion.

Since 1835 and until 1912, it was one of the villages of the old Melitini Municipality. It is a relatively small village, with 124 residents in 1835, 249 in 1907, 332 in 1940 and 102 in 2001.

Although it is a Maniot village it isn’t rocky. On the contrary, it is earthy, fertile rather flat and watered from drillings. In the past, it was watered by canals that led the water of the river to the furrows of the mill.

The villagers produce olive oil, olives, corn, vegetables, dairy products and meat.

In the village, there is the fountain that used to cover the needs of the village, whereas today Arhontiko is watered by the spring of Smynos, that is, Agia Marina.

It is 13km away from Gythion. It is amphitheatrically built on an olive trees hillside with wonderful view. The village is tidy, even though it doesn’t have tourist infrastructure.

Historically, it appears in the Muazzo Code in 1695 as villa Andronie, as well as in other Venetian documents of 1703 and 1705 as Arcodico and Arcondico.

It belongs to the low alpine zone of the Municipality and covers an area of 3.500.000m2. The 1.400.000m2 is cultivated area and the rest is pastoral land.

The parish church of the village is devoted to the Assumption of Virgin Mary and celebrates on the 15th August with a big feast organized by the Local Cultural Association.

Aristeidis Grafakos

Local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It belongs to the alpine zone and covers an area of 13.000.000m2 from which the 1.300.000m2 are cultivated, whereas the rest is mainly pastoral land. The population has had many ups and downs. In 1940 it was 394, in 1951 306, in 1961 219, in 1971 144, in 1981 110, 1991 101 and in 2001 78.

The village is 5 km away from the junction Areopoli-Gythion. On both sides of the road, there are olive trees, fir trees, chestnut trees, and bushes. Slopes, and hills, all green! Wild cats, foxes, ferrets, small birds, turtle doves, chickadees, black birds, hawks and other kinds of animals find refuge to the woodland. Eerie scenery that gives to the sunset a supernatural beauty!

Walking around, one sees the main characteristics of the village, such as the narrowness, lack of places of common use, few and small yards and narrow lanes.

Picturesque churches are seen in many places. Without thinking about their value and age, the visitor assumes they were built yesterday. That well do they fit in the unaltered environment. Amongst these masterpieces, we see the parish church Panagia dated around 1900. In the churchyard, there is a monument devoted to those that fought and died for the sake of their country in different periods of time. Sotiras, which is an old church with recent interventions, still has on the temple traces of frescos. At the end of the village, there are Agios Dimitrios and Loukakos tower with good quality stone building technique; this is the guardian of the area.

The villagers at Skamnaki occupy themselves with agriculture and cattle breeding. Today this is limited. It is worth mentioning the participation of some farmers to organic cultivation programs.

Mani is mostly an alpine region since Taygetus forms its spine. The variety of the landscape, the unique scenery due to the rich flora and fauna create a new dimension and become the ideal destination for those who want to devote their free time to places that will offer them the most beautiful memories.

Ant Roumaneas

It is a local Compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Sidirokastron, Mesohorion, Polyaravos, Skamnitsa and Skyfianika.

It belongs to the alpine zone and covers an area of 34.200.000m. The population has often fluctuated: 800 inhabitants (1940), 564 (1951), 451 (1961), 266 (1971), 181 (1981), 200 (1991) and 163 in the last census of 2001.

Sidirokastro is built on the hill with view to the vast horizon. Last summer, the fire threatened the village, but due to the coordinated efforts of the fire brigade and the villagers it was stopped.

The church Agia Kyriaki dedicated to the saint that protects the village is honoured on the 7th July.

Polyaravos has recently been transferred to the North. It is connected to Sidirokastro, whereas in order to arrive to the old village one has to walk through the traditional cobbled lane. The houses are built with stones on Ziziali hill, but they are now deserted. There are also many towers whereas Stathakos tower remains a symbol of struggle and sacrifice. Ibrahim was defeated at this place when after his failure in Verga and Diros, he attempted to subjugate Mani attacking from the east side.

At Panagia church (14th cent), there is the memorial from Polyaravos battle. Every year, on 15th August they celebrate the event with the participation of the representatives of the state and many people.

Skyfianika pops out from the coomb. It is very green and there are chestnut trees everywhere. The churches Agios Athanasios and Agios Nicolaos with the rare frescos denote the religious feelings of the inhabitants. There are many tower residencies, whereas those of Apostolakos and Pygadiotis family are really particular.

The group of the fighters that helped Maniats to the fight against Ibrahim set off from this village.

In all these places, life has been difficult, hard, and tiring. For this reason a big part of the population immigrated to big cities or abroad. Although, they may have lost the glory of the past, these villages are full of life in summertime when people originating from the area come back for holidays. The initiation of the cultural associations is important as they organise events that reinforce the bonds amongst them and tighten the social relations.

Ant. Roumaneas

Local compartment of Gythion Municipality it consists of the villages Platanos and Psathakia. It is built on the lowland and it covers an area of 7.500.000m2. The 4.600.000m2 are cultivated, whereas the rest is mainly pastoral land. The population has had ups and downs. In 1940, there were 370 residents, in 1951, 337, in 1961, 323, in 1971, 202, in 1961, 216, in 1991, 208 and in 2001, 194.

The village is built on a glade. The temple of Agios Dimitrios, which is the religious monument of the area, is of Byzantine rhythm. It is built with stones, whereas inside there are still some frescos. It is built in the place of Poseidon’s temple. Looking around the village, there are some contradictions. There are some houses, which are samples of traditional architecture and less modern. The narrow lanes on the two sides of the central road are particular, but they should be maintained. However, contradictions create a dynamic atmosphere, which becomes recognisable and friendly and becomes, after all, an advantage. The charm that comes out of the beautiful ugliness. It is the charm of the ugliness whish is authentic caused by uncontrolled building activity. Although this is a sad story it is not unusual, as it occurs all over Greece.

The flora of the area is very rich. There is a big variety of wild flowers.

The beauty of nature wants to be cherished by more and more people, who arrive to this beautiful part of Mani.

Platanos is the typical village with powerful images from the everyday life of the locals. The village lives on tourism, from olives and cattle breeding. In summer, local visitors and guests come to enjoy the coolness of the place and to live and remember images from the past. Nevertheless, this is not an everyday habit nor can this support financially the village. There are no guesthouses, only traditional kafenia, where the villagers meet in the evening to talk about everyday issues.

These are also images of the life of a village. Platanos may be a normal village without many facilities, but it attracts the visitor to come back again.

Ant. Roumaneas

Local Compartment of Gythion Municipality that consists of the villages Neohorio, Ageranos, Agios Vasilios (Neohorion), Vatheos, Dihova, Kamares, and Kaukios. It is built on the lowland and covers an area of 13,8 km2. The population has often fluctuated. In 1940, there were 525 residents, in 1951, 491, in 1991, 262 and in 2001, 331. Last August, at the fire, Neohorio, Ageranos and Kamares had big damages. Both agriculture and cattle breeding were affected. The promises given by the government haven’t still been materialized. Let’s wish, so that the promises are kept in order to solve people’s problems.

Everyday life has its own pace without stress. Farmers, fishermen and employees at tourist jobs managed to keep alive the area, despite the problems they have to deal with.

Neohori is a traditional village with both old renovated houses and new ones. In most of them, there is respect for minimalism and history with the addition, of course, of new features according to modern life. The old houses are built with stones, cut centuries ago, which still remain in their place despite the changes. Neohorio, Agios Vasilios and Dihova are in the inland, whereas Ageranos, Vathy and Kamares are on the seaside with many beaches and hotels.

Ageranos Cape, at the northern part of the village, is most probably ancient Arainos, where Las’ statue and tomb were. It is said that Las was murdered by Achilles, when he came to ask from Tindareo Eleni’s hand. Further down, at the river mouth of Skyras, it is said that Pyrros, Achilles son, made a stop on his way to Skyros aiming to marry Ermioni, Belle Elene’s daughter.

The temple of Diktinis Artemis was on the seaside. Ageranos was the centre of captain Antonis Grigorakis (1803-1808). The stone tower of Antonbey Grigorakis impresses the visitor. On the west, there are the stone towers of Altzerinakos and Xyntarakos as well as the tower complex of Tsikourios high on the hill. The construction has 2 floors and it is surrounded by a complex of houses, stables, warehouses, bakeries, a well and a wall with a gate.

Before the complex, there is Ypapantis temple. On the walls, there are stones taken from ancient temples. It’s worth mentioning also Agios Nicolaos temple (19th century).

Vathy attracts a large part of tourists that come to the area to enjoy the beautiful sea and the tourist infrastructure. At the northern part, there are traces of Hellenistic and Roman period.

Kamares is a tourist resort. The beach has thin pebbles and it is preferred for quiet and happy holidays. Boats and fishing boats are ready to set off for the big haul and then sell their goods to the tavernas.

Shore and sea, a whole world! At wintertime when the northern breeze cools the face, the landscape is so quiet and serene despite the burden of the past and the traces of the present.

It is the Municipal Compartment of Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Myrsini and Prophet Elias. There are approximately 187 inhabitants. The name Myrsini is recent. In the past, the village was called Panitsa.

It is 8 km away from the junction of the road Areopoli-Gythion. It used to be the capital of the old Municipality of Malevri, whereas in 1928 it had 28 inhabitants.

One can see the ruined towers that belonged to Petropoulakis family, as well as the tower of the writer Voula Damianakou.

The role of the Cultural Association Panitsa “ΚΑΠΕΤΑΝ ΛΙΤΣΑΣ” is very important. They organize a lot of events of cultural, educational and historical content and take part in the events at Kastanofito (Osnitsani) Kastoria, which are devoted to the Maniat fighters Antonis Vlahakis, Leonidas and Panagiotis Petropoulakis who fell in the so called battle in 1906 to prove that Macedonia is Greek.

The history of the place is connected to Petropoulakis family, which appeared in 18th century. The family contributed a lot to the struggle of the Nation both in Revolution 1821 and in the revolutionary movement in Thessalia, Crete and Macedonia against Bulgarians.

Olive cultivation and cattle breeding is the only occupation they had. Consequently they couldn’t stay there and a large part of the population immigrated.

The country road that goes to the village should be maintained, whereas there are still the traces of the fire that broke out two years ago and destroyed a large part of the olive grove; in 1981 there was also a destructive fire.

In every corner, in every uphill lane, there are signs of the past. Many houses are renovated; others wait, whereas many new ones are built, too. A few meters away from the entrance of the village, the temple Aghios Spyridon, the temples of Panagia and other small chapels prove the religious feelings of the villagers.

The spring scents from the May flowers are unique. Calmness and relaxation prevail. Images, scents, colors intermingle and create a sense of melancholy to those that lead an urban life.

What is really “patrida” (the birthplace)? Is it the plains? Is it the high mountains? Is it the celebration, the struggle, nature, history? Is it the concealed dreams and ardour? All these are connected to the beauty of Mani. They are a journey to this part of the planet with a glorious past and present.

Antonis Roumaneas     

Marathea is a local compartment at Gythion Municipality. It consists of the villages Marathea, Nea Marathea, Diros and Kouloukas. At the census in 2001, 107 inhabitants were recorded. In the past, the village was densely populated, whereas in 1950 and 1960, it was affected by immigrations, along with the other villages of Mani. In 1940, there were 359 inhabitants and in 1951, 301. It belongs to the lowland of the Municipality and covers an area of 9.900.000m2. The 2.300.000m2 are cultivated areas and the rest is pastoral land.

From the very first moment, you look at the beautiful village that hangs from the hillside, 3 km from the intersection of the road Areopoli-Gythion you are enchanted.

“Gennisi tis Theotokou” is the parish church of the village, whereas at the other side there is Agios Constantinos chapel. Both churches prove the skills of the handymen as well as the need of the local people to communicate with God. Simple and plain without fancy ornaments.

At the central square of the village there is a fountain that was built in 2003 for the travellers. It was donated by Themistocles Sarelakos, whereas next to it they planted a plane-tree to make shadow and keep the place cool.

There are many stone houses; amongst them there is Zebekos tower.

A traditional guesthouse is about to welcome the visitors of the village.

The combination of tranquillity and sweetness expressed by the constructions in combination to the dense vegetation and the olive groves of the surrounding area excite the visitor.

Marathea used to be a central village; it is built in a green landscape full of beech trees, oak trees, chestnut trees, olive trees and many others that create the ideal refuge for those who want live unforgettable moments in nature.

The village is well taken care of and clean with the traditional colours and scents. The relationships amongst the villagers are human and fellow caring, whereas the neighbours always reach the hand to give or take. This is a big thing nowadays!!!

Antonis Roumaneas

Konakia is the Municipal compartment of Gythion Municipality that consists of the villages Konakia and Pilala. It is 8 km after the intersection of the country road Gythion-Areopoli. It has 183 inhabitants (census 2001). It sits on the west side of Gythion on the SE foothills of Taygetus. It is built inside olive groves, whereas in 1928 it had 445 inhabitants.

Since then, many things changed in Mani and in Greece, in general. Memories are weaker, the sense of measure is lost and the tiles were replaced by concrete and machines. Konakia didn’t escape the modern changes. However, there are still some traditional houses and stonewalls.

The fortresses at Pilala and the Hatzakos castle are of exquisite architecture.

In a green area, in the entrance of Konakia, there is the church Agios Jeorgios of the 12th century with a tower bell. It is a sample of artistic architecture that incites the senses.

In these places, history is alive. Earthly colors constitute a scenery of scattered chapels that guard Christianity. Stone fortresses take us back to old times. Life is calm and time is slow. In full harmony with the environment, the stonewalls follow the morphology of the ground enriching the landscape and protecting it from erosion.

Animals and plants find shelter in the rocks. Lizards, spiders, snails, snakes, birds and porcupines find haven there, when the weather conditions are bad. These walls are a smooth intrusion to the environment of multiple use, ecological and aesthetic value, which is part of our inheritance.

They are slowly abandoned, since the occupations of the villagers are mainly connected to tourism and other services. Traditional professions are replaced and people lose connection with the earth.

Konakia and Pilala are two wonderful villages. Scattered castle houses and fortresses are connected in a harmonious way with the landscape. They entice the eye creating impressive images up to the peaks of mountain Taygetus and down to the sea of the Messinian Bay.

Ant Roumaneas

Karvelas is the Municipal Compartment of Gythion Municipality; it consists of the villages Karvela, Gefiraki and Petrovouni. It has 248 inhabitants (census 2001), whereas it is built on a wooded area.

The fortresses of the village take us back to the past. Dimitrakakos’ house with the cylindrical corner cages is an architectural example. It is distinguished for its peculiar shape and imposing construction.

The structure of the villages, the lay out, the orientation, the typology, the materials, the construction follow repeated common, simple and steady principles, which have been the core of modern constructions and villages.

In the last few years, there is a tendency to preserve tradition, meaning the characteristics of this place. Although nowadays there are no more cultivated groves and folds, there are still many details that remind of the vividness of Karvelas in the past. Many generations lived in the village and this is noticeable by the collapsed stonewalls. Those who live there now cannot put the stones back in their place. The new generation now lives in other places.

The locked houses do not create a feeling of melancholy; on the contrary one thinks that the residents are sleeping. Some of the houses are open, whereas some others have been renovated and some others have collapsed. The inhabitants left mostly due to unemployment. So they abandoned their houses and they collapsed. Nowadays many people come back and in summertime the village is crowded; then everything gets back to normal.

Karvelas has many hidden beauties. If they were all discovered and developed, the villagers would be more satisfied.

Antonis Roumaneas

Karea is a Municipal compartment of Vytilo Municipality that consists of the villages Karea and Boutselianika. It is part of the mountainous zone of Vytilo Municipality and covers an area of 4000000m2 at an altitude of 540m above sea level. The population scale has often changed during the last 60 years. According to the census recordings in 1940, there were 176, in 1951, 144 inhabitants, in 1961, 95, in 1971, 52, in 1981, 81, in 1986, 86 and in 2001, 91. The name of the village possibly comes from the chestnut trees surrounding the area. The village is traditional with old and new houses built on the hillside. The church of Agios Nicolaos is imposing. The central square with the big fir-tree offers a view to the surrounding villages. Walking up, we come to another square with plenty of running water coming from an underground spring that offers refreshment and relaxation to the visitor.

The landscape consists of piles of stones, which are remnants of old houses. There are, of course, the new houses built in the green surroundings that lighten the image of the infertile and hard land.

More and more people want to share the beauty of the nature. So, they come back to their birthplace. The writer, journalist and chronographer Jeorgios Tsibidaros originates from this village. He was known by his nickname Jeorgios Fteris. His brother Vasilis Tsibidaros (captain Tsibidas) was the commander of Captain Germas’ military troop who fought for the liberation of Macedonia. He was killed on 16-07-1907 at Losnitsa in Kastoria.

The area has suffered from the fires that broke out last August.

Those who have the authority should take care of the people’s fair demands.

Ant. Roumaneas